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Buenos Aires, Argentina
Buenos Aires has a red-hot energy you can’t ignore. The city will wine and dine you with Malbec and unbelievably good steak, and keep you up ‘til dawn at clubs and dance halls. But there’s a low-key side that’s worth getting to know, too. Stroll the cobblestone streets of the barrios in the morning to see the neoclassical architecture at your own speed. Sure, Palermo’s got trendy restaurants and boutiques, but there’s something to be said for grabbing a choripán and having an easy picnic in Bosques de Palermo. Head to San Telmo for Feria de San Telmo—a huge street fair every Sunday—and to tango (see a show or catch it outdoors at Plaza Dorrego). For something more laid-back, check out an art museum or gallery, then hit a food stall at Mercado de San Telmo. Go fast or take it slow—the choice is yours. We’ve got more ideas below.
Essential Buenos Aires
Where to find the best tango in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is the birthplace of tango—in the 1800s, this sensual dance united working class immigrants, indigenous Argentines, and freed slaves. Today it still offers a window into the passionate culture of the country. When I moved to Argentina at age six, an experienced tanguero (dancer) borrowed my beloved stuffed dog to dance tango with him on the colourful streets of Caminito La Boca; I’ve been captivated ever since.
- Rojo Tango903Hands down the most exclusive tango show in the city, Rojo Tango is housed within the opulent Faena Hotel in an intimate speakeasy-like room lit in sensual red. Opt for the decadent pre-show dinner where quality Argentine wines flow freely. I feel I never fully understood tango as pure art until experiencing this immersive and creative show where both dancers and live musicians perform within mere feet of you.
- Cafe de los Angelitos1,046For a classic tango experience, check out this gorgeous space that holds more than a century of dance history. An elegant tango show comes to life here with 21 tangueros accompanied by a live orchestra, and it caters to tourists, so it’s a great spot to get introduced to the culture (they even offer hotel transfers). During the day you can grab a coffee at the onsite cafe decorated with hundreds of photos recounting the history of tango.
- Tango Queer0 reviewsBuenos Aires is proudly one of the most queer-friendly travel destinations in the world. As a bisexual woman, I respect that Tango Queer challenges the existing heteronormative roles often present in “traditional” tango (ironically, as tango originated as a ballet-like dance between two men). Tango Queer is a warm, friendly space welcoming dancers of any gender to participate in either leading or being led. There are tango classes followed by milonga, where everyone of all abilities is invited to dance.
- El Viejo Almacen1,093Revered as one of the most classic tango houses in the world, historic El Viejo Almacén has been the home of tango since 1968, when famous local tango singer Edmundo Rivero acquired the century-old building. It’s still one of the top spots to watch tango and perfect for a romantic evening out on the town. Dinner is served starting at 8 p.m., and a 100 minute show begins at 10pm.
- Caminito7,550Not all tango requires a backdrop of red curtains and fancy stages. While it can certainly add dramatic flair, the culture of tango can be found right on the streets of La Boca, an eclectic and colourful neighbourhood. When I have visitors, I always take them on a walking tour to see the skilled street performers here and have lunch at one of the many outdoor restaurants that offer casual tango shows such as Encuentro Nativo.
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Get ideas on what to do, see, and eat
- Spring in Buenos AiresSee what makes the city so magical at this time of year
- Time to tangoLive shows, classes, clubs, and more
- Buenos Aires on a dimeEats and activities that won’t break the bank
- If you’re feeling fancy-ishGo-all-out experiences worth every peso
- Spend a day on the ranchPlaces to experience gaucho life and culture
- Saddle upPolo matches, horse racing, and more
- For the history buffMust-see museums, palaces, and landmarks
- Buenos Aires, after darkThere’s lots to do when the sun goes down
- Shop the city’s marketsAll the best ferias for food and local crafts
- Chill out in natureScenic places to unplug and recharge
- Take a detour from the crowdsOff-the-beaten path places and hidden gems
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