Nomadic tribal heritage and modern society co-exist in the UAE, a federation of seven emirates at the southeastern edge of the Arabian Peninsula. Look beyond the desert that consumes four-fifths of its area and you'll find UAE capital Abu Dhabi, an oil-rich city of skyscrapers, parks and malls, and Dubai, with its split personality of luxury resorts and covered marketplaces, upscale boutiques and local artisans. For a break from urban sprawl, journey over rolling red sand dunes into the Hatta Mountains, where the 200-year-old Sharia Mosque sits amid 30 restored buildings of sandalwood and mud.