Playa del Carmen
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Learn morePlaya del Carmen, Mexico
Once a sleepy fishing village, Playa del Carmen is now a Riviera Maya destination for nature lovers, history buffs, and party people alike. Here, lively bars and cool boutiques sit next to local taquerias and chic luxury hotels—all a bit more grounded in Mexican style than some of its neighbours up the coast. By day, hit the beach, chill out at a waterpark, or hop the ferry to Cozumel. At night, stroll La Quinta (the city’s main pedestrian thoroughfare) for some people watching and the perfect margarita. And, if all of that’s not enough, amazing diving and snorkelling are just offshore, while famed archeological sites, like the ancient ruins of Coba and the pre-Columbian ruins of Tulum, tower over the inland jungle and the coast nearby.
Essential Playa del Carmen
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A high-low food tour of Playa del Carmen
Playa del Carmen is one of my favourite beach towns in Mexico. It has it all: nearby ancient archeological sites, beautiful beaches, magical cenotes, world-renowned nightlife, and, most importantly, fantastic food at all price points. Each time I’ve visited, I’ve had delicious meals everywhere from hole-in-the-wall spots popular with locals to upscale restaurants in fancy hotels. Here are some of my favourites.
Lola Méndez, Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
The Pitted Date Vegan Restaurant Bakery & Cafe266One of my top restaurants in Playa del Carmen, the Pitted Date just happens to be vegan. But even meat-eaters will love the food here, especially the conchita pibil tacos made with jackfruit. Standards like chilaquiles and huevos rancheros are also great, as are more international dishes like the croque monsieur and gluten-free pancakes. I love to come here for brunch before heading to the beach just a few blocks away.
Las Quekas11A type of fungus that grows on corn, huitlacoche is basically a Mexican truffle—it’s delicious and a must-try when visiting the country. I love to eat it at Las Quekas, where it’s cooked into a massive quesadilla (called “quekas” for short). Get one to see if you like it, and if you don’t, don’t worry. You can get quesadillas filled with mushrooms, chicken, and chorizo instead.
El Fogon6,738If you go to Playa del Carmen and don’t get tacos at El Fogón, did you even go? This open-air spot is my absolute favourite for made-to-order tacos al pastor, but I also love the Oaxacan queso fundido with chorizo, which comes with a pile of fresh flour tortillas. Of all the El Fogón locations, I prefer the two-story outpost at 30 Avenida Norte because it has the most seating.
Las Hijas De La Tostada228When I’m craving freshly caught fish, I always head to this trendy seafood bar for the tostadas topped with chipotle shrimp and chili tuna. There are three locations around Playa, but the Coco Beach outpost is best because of the water views. Despite being a chain, Las Hijas isn’t a fast-food joint, so budget some time to sit and enjoy your meal here.
La Vagabunda6,530I’m not huge into the Playa del Carmen nightlife scene, but I can’t resist an al fresco margarita at this popular spot. It’s just a few minutes from the beach, so I’ll make a pitstop here for drinks and starters like guacamole, ceviche, and aguachile on my way back to my hotel to get ready for dinner. Check the calendar of events on their website, as there’s often live music in the evening.
Trattoria Del Centro2,176Just because you’re in Mexico doesn’t mean you need to eat Mexican for every meal. Playa del Carmen is an international city with plenty of global cuisine. For Italian, my go-to is Trattoria del Centro. I love the spaghetti alla trapanese (pesto). The pizzas are great, too; just don’t sit too close to the wood-burning oven, it gets really warm. Also, be sure to start your meal with some of the rosemary focaccia.
Estero7Located in the ultra-luxurious La Casa de la Playa resort, Estero is helmed by award-winning Peruvian chef Virgilio Martinez, who runs Central in Lima (the number one restaurant on the “Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants” list). The eight-course tasting menu mixes Mexican and Peruvian flavours and was some of the best food I’ve ever had in my life. Totally worth the splurge, but be sure to make bookings well in advance.
Alux3,159If you’re in the mood for a fancy night out, try ALUX, which serves gourmet fare in a cenote cavern. It’s one of the most memorable dining experiences I’ve had in Playa del Carmen. The food is contemporary Mexican; get the slow-cooked pork belly in beet mole or splurge on the Caribbean lobster. Either way, you’re in for an amazing night—you’ll be eating under ancient stalactites illuminated by neon lights.
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