I experienced the Theyyam tour arranged by Tyndis and it was overwhelming for me!
This is going to be a long one…yes, I have a lot to tell about Theyyam!!! I heard this word for the first time when I was travelling in South India from Hampi to Mangalore last year. Mr Akhil, one of my friends, who was also a photographer mentioned about it. I’ll be ever grateful to him for that!
Theyyam is a ritualistic dancing art form, performed sacredly in the groves and temple shrines in northern parts of the state of Kerala in India! Some rituals involve blood sacrifices!!!!! Well, it’s a sight one must experience – words are just insufficient!
I was introduced to Theyyam sometime in June by Akhil. I soon started researching about it and planned for my visit to Theyyam in Kannur. The Theyyam season falls between the periods of late October to early June. During the Theyyam season, small temples and shrines across the northern regions of Kerala host hundreds of Theyyam dance performances.
I searched for the best options to explore the Theyyam tour in Kerala. I came across Tyndis Theyyam tours through their website. I contacted them and came to know about the exclusive Theyyam tour they provide. I needed to explore as much Theyyam as possible - this was my main request to them. Tyndis team customized their existing package according to my needs and came up with a 2N/3D which had 9 different theyyam including all the day and night ones with fire dance and rare theyyam festivals called the ‘Perumkaliyattam’ which happen only once in every 12 years. Well, I could just say that I was lucky enough to find Tyndis website online!
If you are a traveler who is looking to experience a theyyam , they also have a short Theyyam storytelling tour of just 2 -3 hours experience. However, my requirement was different.
I had free time during November – Tyndis team scheduled my tour according to my dates and arranged the best possible Theyyam experience. Theyyam is seasonal as well as strictly scheduled. So, you must plan your visit according to the best available Theyyam festivals. Thanks to Tyndis and storyteller Sidharth for this effort! Tyndis team was extremely careful in organizing the entire tour – They picked me up from the Kannur International Airport on my arrival. My accommodation was arranged near a beach in a beautiful beach resort in Kannur. They served absolutely delicious malabar food!! Also, the taxi and the proper arrangements for shooting and experiencing each Theyyam was really professional. Tyndis had curated this Theyyam tour in a way that I could experience the rituals connected with the Theyyam , preparation of the artist, face painting called Mukhathezhuthu, interaction with Theyyam artists - altogether this experience had stories as well as local community engagement .Tyndis storyteller Sidharth is a person I cannot miss to mention. He assisted me throughout this Theyyam tour. He explained about each Theyyam and Theyyam festivals to me. I really cannot miss to mention the moment when Sidharth introduced me to Mr. Mohanan - the head of the Theyyam artists. It was wonderful to talk to Mohanan who have been dancing as the divine god for the past 45 years!! Though he talked in Malayalam, Sidharth translated each part to me in English. He even had tender coconuts arranged for me during the day time. Much recommended service by Tyndis!!
Though Theyyam performances happen at all times of day, be sure to catch one or two in the late night or early morning. That’s when the fire comes out! Theyyam attains heavenly feel with lamps, attires and the music. Traditional instruments such as the Chenda and Elathalam are used to produce ambient music during Theyyam performance.
As mentioned, Tyndis had arranged for my stay in a beautiful place called Thottada in Kannur district, near to a beach. I was picked up from my beach resort at 21:00 by Sidharth in a sedan car, and dropped off at 12:00 the next day. It was a bit hectic schedule, but I could really enjoy the essence of the Theyyam festival. During the break times in the night, I slept in the car, though I was offered a space in a household near the temple. The people were so welcoming!! There were curious kids smiling at me, wondering where I came from!
In this part of Kerala, the young and old alike cluster around for Theyyam festivals. For the night’s ritual, frenzied drummers begin beating a tattoo in perfect synchronicity. Young priests light palm frond torches, swishing embers off into the air. Older priests in crisp white lungi, south Indian sarongs, stand in front of a small temple, staring sternly. Suddenly, the collective breath released, and a sense of awe filled the void. The god arrived. The Theyyam began!!! That night, at that ungodly hour, I was standing amidst the crowd, watching the divine dance of the Kutty Theyyam, somewhere in a village shrine in Kannur! Sidharth explained the story of Kutty Theyyam to me as Theyyam stood atop a wooden stool before the shrine. Two young priests held his hands, steadying him as he circled in a tight, stomping dance to the drums. Bells and bangles clatter as he rattled his feet between rotations. It was a magical experience for me! It can be a magical experience for just about anyone! Thanks to Tyndis and Siddarth
Practical tips for seeing Theyyam in Kerala
You can take photos, but be respectful and avoid flash
Respect the norms and regulations at the temple
There are usually other attractions alongside the rituals, such as dramas or music. It varies by the festival
Try to make a donation to the temple -Not necessarily.
Theyyam is a must experience if you are travelling to northern parts of Kerala. I recommend that it is always good to arrange tours with operators like Tyndis who provide storyteller/ local guide assistance.