Before I begin - let me share something here! When the pandemic struck and I was locked down for three months alone - I got to think a lot and started to imagine some new places.

I imagined a kind of home where its walls were not too high but still made me feel safe, where I could breathe in fresh air, feel the grass beneath my bare feet, see and 'smell' the greenery around... all I really wanted was open spaces that could still be closed. Paradoxical much?! Well, that was how my mind worked and wandered as the world around me steadily locked down. Small and random thoughts like that of balconies, flowering shrubs, soft cushions, big cups of tea, the call of babblers in a tree early morning – they would bring me joy.

Little did I know that during my two-night visit to Shanti Niketan, I would discover that those stray images that I would relentlessly daydream of in those many months is a REAL place –only it is even better!

Chota Kothi is truly a home away from home – and staying here is an experience that has been curated by Nayana to give you the experience of an ERA gone by, but sprinkled with plenty of creature comforts and warmth that only she brings to the table.

The rooms are spacious and filled with curios and books that immediately inform you that the owner of this home is someone who is a well-travelled, art-loving, bibliophile. There is so much art and history within the confines of her home that you could spend a few hours of a misty morning just looking up at her pictures and decor and exploring her garden. You will find a lovable companion in Ronnie who is essentially, a prescribed happy little pill. Seriously, every office or home needs a Ronnie to bat away those Monday morning blues – he just bolts in and the energy of a room gets turned up!

All the basics are there, and if there is anything else that you need – you can request the caretaker, Marku who keeps the place clean and sparkling and cooks up delicious meals. Marku’s Spanish omelette is now the stuff of legend– it is the way those mushrooms, cheese and tomatoes blend in oh-so-perfectly together that gives you a kickstart to the day!

The crown jewel in Nayana’s Homestay is Nayana herself. She is brimming with knowledge and stories and a fierceness that comes with being an independent and resilient woman, and knows her town like the back of her hand. If you have the random-est of questions about Tagore, Birbhum district, Bangla cuisine, the Vishwa Bharti university or tribal/Bangla/Contemporary art – Nayana has the answers, or could guide you to place or moment where you will get the answers! Getting to know her better whilst this trip was the cherry-on-top of an already delightful cake, and I cannot wait to sample more, someday… and hopefully soon!

Things to note:

• Some mobile networks are patchy and there is no Hi-speed Internet or Cable TV connection. If you are someone for whom that is important, or you are considering using the place to ‘work from home’ – you will need to bring your own broadband dongle as a backup. Chota Kothi is not a place for “work” (in my opinion!) – use the time and space to switch off devices and recharge your own batteries instead!

•Mosquitoes are abundant (and usually bearable!) – but a good repellent is required and make sure to close your bedroom windows during the early hours of the evening, so that your night remains peaceful and uninterrupted by this menace.

• Prantik railway station is super-close, so factor it in for all railway bookings!

• Always wear your most comfortable, easy to slip-on and slip-off walking shoes – the town and neighborhood – actually, even the larger district of Birbhum is designed to be explored on foot or the occasional Toto (electric rickshaws).

I want to keep returning to Shantiniketan in large part due to Nayana's hospitality. She's the consummate conversationalist and an evening with her always keeps me and the other guest(s) on our toes. Nayana's knowledge of Shantiniketan and West Bengal is unparalleled and she can also do side tours for an additional fee. We visited some palaces and terracota temples. Next time I hope to go to Murshidabad with her too. The house itself is also lovely with ample room to find different places to chill out and relax. The garden is beautiful and the homestay is situated in an area where one can take lots of walks in different directions. This homestay is great value for money and I'll keep coming back when I can!

We were browsing through tripadvisor to find a quiet retreat in Shantiniketan ,which is away from the madding crowd and stumbled upon this gem called "Chota Kothi".

From the very first day ,Warmth and hospitality of Nanyana di made us feel like we were visiting a relative during vacation rather than staying in a hotel.

Here are some delights of staying at Chota kothi.

1.Nayana di loves travelling and as you expect from a well traveled person , once the evening adda starts it stretches endlessly.Who knew we will end up discussing topics ranging from "stories of old kolkata",to"Japanese bathing house" to "ghosts in Golkunda fort " to "how to slow cook pork with honey" in a single evening.

2.Maku di(Nayana di's commander in charge) cooks really good Spanish Omelet and the overall breakfast was simple but good.

3.All the required amenities are present to make oneself comfortable.We had traveled with 2.5 year old daughter and we were felt at ease from 1st day .

4.We ordered dinners for both the days from Borgi da and the taste and portion was excellent. Dal fry from his place was quite unique and I never had dal fry cooked like this before.(Though word of caution it seems he has a habit of getting confused so please order early and in plain simple words.)

We had a wonderful stay and will surely come back again.