We had dinner at La Maison Jeunet on a Sunday evening during an extended weekend focused on the discovery of the Jura wines. La Maison Jeunet is an institution in Arbois and has been operating for decades. Jean-Paul Jeunet actually recently gave up the lead to a new chef, not unknown in the house though, Steven Naessens. There were 2 tasting menus. A 6 course menu at 120€ and a 8 course menu at 150€. We went for the 6 course menu. The restaurant has one Michelin star and that calls for steeper price. However I consider that the quality of the food did not quite justify to pay 120€ without wines. The menu was excellent of course but there were a few minor details here and there that you just do not forgive at this price level. Two of the first three dishes were slow cooked white fishes at low temperature. The dishes were excellent overall due to the extreme tastiness of the vegetables and the seasoning. However both fished lacked some taste despite the great texture given by the cooking process. Frog legs were served between the two fishes and had a similar problem of comparatively neutral meat with deliciously potent vegetables and seasoning. The lamb was to die for. It was a perfectly balanced dish that I can only praise. We finished with cheese and a terrific dessert plate. The restaurant actually has a pastry chef. You can taste that for sure. What really transformed the evening and made me forget the above mentioned critics was the sommelier. We did not want to go for a bottle and asked him to select 3 glasses to accompany our meal. He came back with an excellent selection which not only beautifully paired with the courses but also gave us great insights in the local wine offer. Throughout the dinner, the sommelier made himself available to extensively answer our questions on the Jura vineyards. I ordered a fourth glass to go with the cheese. He recommended a vin jaune but instead of bringing one glass he brought two half-glasses of vin jaune from the same vintage but from different terroirs so that I could compare them. We had an unforgettable experience that night!
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