We had dined at several good tavernas in the three hillside villages that overlook Hersonissos but for some reason, had never visited To Margo, so on a warm Sunday afternoon we drove up to Old Hersonissos and parked the car under an obliging tree in the free car park a couple of hundred meters from the village square.
As you enter the square from the east, To Margo sits on the right, a collection of blue tables and chairs, some outside beneath a gazebo, and more inside. It was rather early for dinner, and too late for lunch, hence the place wasn't overly busy but the owner greeted us enthusiastically and steered us to the table of our choice. It soon became obvious why the place wasn't busy as next door, at the taverna there, a christening celebration was in full flow, maybe 200 people or more, all revelling in the occasion, with a local quartet of musicians belting out Cretan folk music whilst the two year old centre of attention, dresssed in a beautiful white dress was passed around her adoring friends and relations.
The owner appeared back at the table to take our order, so we opted for kalimari, tzatzaki and creamed mushrooms, along with a couple of Mythos beers. As all her regular customers were next door, the food came out quickly and delicious it was too. The tzatziki was freshly made and served with some toasted pitta slices, the kalimari was flash fried in a very light batter, and the mushrooms were simply to die for.
We ate slowly as we were enjoying not just the food, but the party next door, and were feeling rather lucky to have stumbled across such a celebration. Eventually though, we had finished everything and agreed that it had been a superb meal. The owner presented us with a raki each, which we gratefully knocked back, settled up up for the meal which was a very reasonable €17, and made our way back to the car for the quick ride back to Anissaras.
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