We were looking for a more intensive way to explore Mumbai as this was our third visit in 18 months. A national newspaper's "Five Best Things Guide" led us to the Mumbai Dreams website, where email exchanges were prompt, friendly and factual.
The tour ran exactly as described, with Dinesh leading three of us through its various features with clarity, patience and pride.
We began by observing the Dabbawallahs relaying lunches from home to office near Churchgate Station, a delivery network of unsurpassable efficiency, according to Harvard, and there's no reason to disagree.
Dinesh's presence granted us access to the inner workings of the city at 'grassroots' level. The launderers and families of the Dhobi Ghat (laundries) made us feel welcome and certainly opened our eyes to its operations.
The rail journeys were a treat too, being outside of rush hour, although the return trip did give us a taste of the crowding that is considered normal, but we have lived to tell the tale.
Visiting Dharavi, the formal slum area, was an entry to a hive where industry and home-life often merged into one; this is one of the reasons that this community resists the modernisation of the area by the building of apartment blocks, as this would restrict work activity drastically. Nonetheless, the tower blocks are slowly making steps across the area - undoubtedly beneficial but strangely saddening. There's a long way to go before modernisation is complete.
The trades and services to be seen sometimes dealt with disposables such as plastics, metal containers and fabrics, or demonstrated crafts such as dyeing, leather working and pottery, or the enterprise of suitcase manufacture.
The (mainly) residential area proves alarming but still defiantly homely, and is certainly a friendly place; we carry away memories but not photographs of this area, respecting privacy.
All in all this made for a shocking insight for us, yet also an education and a pleasure, watching communities and commerce thrive - we feel privileged to have passed by, and would encourage anyone else to challenge their own lifestyle assumptions.
Be prepared for considerable walking over rough or uneven ground, and wear stout footwear, this is no tourist-trap excursion.
