We stayed a couple of nights at the Ryokan Sugimoto to experience this part of Japanese hospitality. As you'd expect, the service is outstanding and discreet, the rooms were comfortable (in the Japanese minimalist style) and the onsen was small and well maintained. The food is the real point however, a high-end multi-course meal each night and only slightly less extravagant at breakfast although not for the faint-hearted! It's expensive and if budget was stretched, one night would be enough, but well worth trying especially if it is your first time in Japan. The Ryokan is on the outskirts of Matsumoto but easy to get into town on the bus. Throw yourself into it and you will love it.
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