We enjoyed our stay, because of the hotel's location right on the ghats, and because our room had a grandstand view over the Ganges, facing the rising sun. We both agreed that it was a superb choice of hotel. If we return we won't even think of trying somewhere different.
First impressions weren't good. The town is noisy and busy, and you're set down in the street. The hotel had arranged our airport pickup, which had called ahead so we were met by the staff, who carried our bags (on their shoulders and at some speed) through a maze of narrow, and dirty walkways. Our expectation of an enjoyable stay receded with every step. From a functional reception office we were taken across a private - and clean - walkway and things looked up.
OK, it's definitely not the Ritz; the rooms are obviously converted from a previous purpose and ours was a curious shape, but as soon as you realise what view you'll be waking up to then you'll, like us, say it's worth the negatives.
Our room was comfortable, the bed huge, the bathroom large, the a/c powerful, and the water hot. All our contacts with the staff were positive; they were very helpful. Every contact was positive.
Upstairs is a good restaurant and terrace, again with the breathtaking view, which sells cold beer, and will serve your own wine if you've bought it outside. The breakfast is modest but good and plentiful, and later there's a wide choice of well-cooked meals, at a reasonable price - and the view is free!.
The hotel is well placed to access the ghats for the full, and tough, Varanasi experience. We ventured out into the walkways and, as India veterans, on second inspection found them not as bad as we first thought; they are the real inner city India. Literally, they go with the territory.
You've come to see Varanasi because it's a special part of India, and waking to the sunrise over the Ganges at dawn is magical. If it costs you a walk through the real-India experience and a stay at a hotel without a butler and a spa it's worth it.
If you're visiting Varanasi to see Varanasi then Palace on Steps is the place to see it from.