We started at one end of Chowk and walked to the other, browsing chikan work, looking at embroidery threads and flosses, itar and shoes. There were only a few beggars - more at the entry than in Chowk itself - and the merchants were willing to bargain. Some were also more than willing to show off their craft, such as hammering silver foil or embroidering chikan work. Definitely stop at the original(!) Tunday Kebab, closer to the south end than the north - no sign, no labels, but the only kebab joint on the street. The food is not worth missing!