Staying at Fort Rampura is unique and wonderful, and well worth the effort of getting there. It is a beautiful, romantically-crumbling palace, far off the beaten track, in a rural setting of villages, fields and dusty ravines, where dacoits once, not so many years ago, lay in ambush. Although it is crumbling, the hosts, Keshu and Padmini, do their very best to keep the inhabited parts in the best possible condition, as well as slowly restoring the parts that have fallen into disrepair. It is a Sisyphean task, rather more daunting than painting the Forth Bridge, but they seem to be fuelled by endless optimism, good humour and joie de vivre, which makes it all the more enjoyable to stay with them. They are the friendliest, loveliest hosts you could wish for, always smiling, always with an interesting story to tell. They personally show you around the neighbourhood, taking you to the local market, the family orchard, a sugar cane press, a village potter, a neighbouring palace, for a walk through the notorious ravines and for a boat trip on the River Yamuna. You can thus get to know rural India in a way that is impossible on the normal tourist trail. You can also enjoy excellent Indian home-cooking, with some of the most delicious and wholesome food we had on our whole trip. All in all, even if you only stay there for two nights, as we did, Fort Rampura is an experience you will never forget.