Our stay at Fort Rampura was simply an all-round superb experience. Despite being well off the beaten track (it's about a 5-hour drive from Lucknow), it is well worth the journey. Nestled away in the heart of rural Uttar Pradesh and sitting on 600 years of history, the fort itself is beautiful; the rooms are tastefully done, and - despite being a homestay - all the usual hotel-style toiletries and towels are provided. This is, however, where comparisons with hotels stop. What really set this place apart for us were our gracious hosts, Keshavendra and Padhmini Singh. Extremely welcoming, hospitable and generous, they really went above and beyond what was expected of hosts at a homestay. Padhmini's cooking was wonderful; the activities they arranged (tour of the fort, a visit to a nearby fort, sunset row across a nearby river) lovely; and Keshu's anecdotes from 16 generations of family history at Rampura over games of billiards and foaming tankards of Kingfisher entertaining and fascinating. I think I speak for all of my travelling companions and myself when I say that I couldn't recommend this place enough.