If you think of a desert city as bleak, think again. You feel the magic of Jaisalmer, the Golden City, land of the Bhatti princes, born of the moon, as soon as it comes into view. The fort, rising from the mighty rock like a giant sand castle, parapets, balconies, and terraces included, crowns the city. The beauty of the living fort, the havelis, and the Jain temples, all carved from the same honey gold stone, will leave you breathless. And what better place to stay than a hotel in the fort built in 1056 AD. The Killa Bhawan hotel has all the soul of the fort and all the comforts of a luxury hotel. We knew we’d made the right hotel choice from the moment our host, Bahnu, welcomed us with a warm, “Relax, you’re home.” We were even more sure as we watched him wave goodbye to us from the city gates. Our flight was canceled because the mists rolled in from the “snows in Kashmir.” The tiny airport had canceled fights the day before and most likely would again the next day, so we weren’t sure how we would rework out plans. However, Bahnu and his staff at the hotel found us a driver and hotel in Jodhpur and handed us hot grilled cheese and tomato sandwiches wrapped in foil, along with spicy chips, chocolate cookies and cold bottled water for the trip…a canceled fight has never been so easy. It was this hospitality that we experienced daily in the city and especially at Hotel Killa Bhawan. The hotel and its café, just a short tuk-tuk ride away, will exceed all your expectations. If this isn’t the best hotel in Jaisalmer, I’ll kiss your thali.