I stumbled upon this cafe looking for a place to relax that was not full of tour groups. I was very pleasantly surprised.
It was about 4 PM on a Monday in early October-- so while of course there were tourists, there was actually also Croatian being spoken at some tables. Maybe Croatian tourists, but nonetheless! I had a lovely view of the square from my outdoor table. My carpaccio was fabulous. The Campari soda was a generous shot over ice in a highball glass with a bottle of sparkling water on the side. In a word, this was a real cafe.
I saw some negative reviews of the service. Surprising to me. My waiter was a gentleman, a professional, and attentive as one would expect. I think Old Town is a mad house in the summer months and I bet service suffers all over as a result. I heard that some days in high summer there are 5 cruise ships in the harbor and 10,000 tourists enter the Old Town...
My recommendation-- visit Dubrovnik when all the European kids are back in school! And don't miss this classic cafe.