The newly re conceived Lipsky tries to be a more accessible, less formal, and better priced. It sort of succeeds but not by much. The rather elegant natural dark woods have been painted over beige-brown; a shame since better renovation options existed, albeit more expensive and time consuming. The dining layout is roughly the same but the downstairs is far more casual while the upstairs still retains tablecloths and feels more formal and certainly better secluded. Frankly, I prefer the upstairs as the downstairs can get very noisy and offers little privacy. The menu is stripped down, offering some of the old dishes along with Euro-reinterpretations of the classics. The quality is still there but somehow you feel that the prices are a tad too high for what you get. Service just doesn’t fit the new concept. It seems far too distant and cold for a place that is supposedly more lighthearted. The kitchen also has problems with the new menu, as waits between courses can be inexorably long; a two-hour meal can easily stretch into three hours. On the bright side, the wine list is still strong with several very well priced selections. Note that the wine list on the menu is a tiny sample of the main list that you need to ask for. All in all, it’s somewhat of a disappointment. It seems they are trying to catch-up with all of the new rather bold restaurants that have recently opened up in Kiev. They still have a lot of catching up to do.
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