I spent a week in Mosquitiia last December, based mostly in Las Marias, tiny village deep in the heart of the Rio Platano Biosphere Reserve. Stayed with local villagers, very friendly and so peaceful. Wildlife all around, including masses of parrots, macaws, toucans, and lots of other riverbirds. We did several river trips, and hikes, including one tough all-day hike up to Pico Baltimore - never been so wet and muddy in my life, but ultimately elated at the adventure. But, and this is a BIG BUT: the whole area - supposedly protected by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site - is being threatened by: drug gangs cutting down the first to build landing strips, illegal settlers, or "invasores" as locals call them - suspected set up by drug smugglers laundering their profits - also cutting down trees to create cattle pastures, illegal hunting of endangered animals, tapir, etc, and even dynamiting of rare fish. The local indigenous people feel threatened, unprotected and scared - some narcos have been seen wandering around with machine guns, intimidating locals into selling off communal land. So far no one has been injured or attacked, and the area is safe for tourists - as far as I have heard - but people need to lobby UNESCO and anyone else they can talk to, to try to get this "Little Amazon" protected.
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