At the Michelin Two Star level a restaurant is expected to do its own thing, be cutting edge, a bit dramatic, and of course charge about double that of a One Star. They clearly don't achieve this recognition without doing a lot of things right. But sometimes the net result for you as a couple of customers can be underwhelming.
In fairness to the restaurant, we did not choose one of their tasting menus. In selecting appetizers, mains and desserts we chose what might be of interest to us. While the appetizers were very good (and should be at 32 E/per) our main courses seemed more experiments than culinary magic. My wife chose lamb and I chose pigeon, a dish I am very fond of in French restaurants, but have yet to see a success in Italy. The lamb seemed more a lesson in anatomy than in a taste sensation. What I saw of the pigeon on my plate suggests it died of malnutrition. Little faux nut balls filled with foie fras seemed prissy and distracting.
We chose two desserts that were good, not great. Several barrages of unpredictable amuse de bouches were hit or miss. Some very good, some clinkers.
I understand they have a majestic wine list. With some medications, we limited ourselves to a couple of glasses of fine Brunello di Montalcino.
The wait staff was courteous, well trained and arriving and departing with the precision you expect in these establishments. They looked more like young law clerks than waiters in their dark suits and red ties.
We came for the show. We have been to many exceptional premium restaurants. I'm sure there were some dishes on their menu that would have upped our enthusiasm. Since we didn't find them, this is no rave review.
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