My boyfriend and I returned two weeks ago from our "once in a lifetime" journey to the Riviera Maya, to celebrate my birthday. We spent the first night in Playa del Carmen at Hotel La Tortuga, (the perfect landing spot!), and went to the beach for a caribbean swim, had appetizers at Media Luna, wandered up and down Avenida Quinta to shop and people watch, had a wonderful dinner at Yaxche (delicious Mayan cuisine), and a nightcap at "ultra hip" Deseo. Tulum was our primary destination, and the next afternoon we drove to Ana y Jose. (Wouldn't go without renting a car, as it was so much more convenient, and the cost for economy size for 10 days with Budget was only $250.) ACCOMODATIONS: Our five night stay in Tulum at Ana y Jose was perfect, beautiful, magical. The setting and architecture is exactly what I was hoping for on the Mexican Caribbean, and the staff were all very kind and accomodating, without being intrusive. In my opinion, after extensive research, and now having seen it all up close, the four ocean-front suites at Ana y Jose (we stayed in Aguademar) are the best accomodation in Tulum (small beachfront property). These stucco suites, only two years old, are set apart from the side of the hotel that seems to cater more to families (near the pool) and we felt completely alone, with absolute privacy throughout our stay. We loved our...My boyfriend and I returned two weeks ago from our "once in a lifetime" journey to the Riviera Maya, to celebrate my birthday. We spent the first night in Playa del Carmen at Hotel La Tortuga, (the perfect landing spot!), and went to the beach for a caribbean swim, had appetizers at Media Luna, wandered up and down Avenida Quinta to shop and people watch, had a wonderful dinner at Yaxche (delicious Mayan cuisine), and a nightcap at "ultra hip" Deseo. Tulum was our primary destination, and the next afternoon we drove to Ana y Jose. (Wouldn't go without renting a car, as it was so much more convenient, and the cost for economy size for 10 days with Budget was only $250.)

ACCOMODATIONS: Our five night stay in Tulum at Ana y Jose was perfect, beautiful, magical. The setting and architecture is exactly what I was hoping for on the Mexican Caribbean, and the staff were all very kind and accomodating, without being intrusive. In my opinion, after extensive research, and now having seen it all up close, the four ocean-front suites at Ana y Jose (we stayed in Aguademar) are the best accomodation in Tulum (small beachfront property). These stucco suites, only two years old, are set apart from the side of the hotel that seems to cater more to families (near the pool) and we felt completely alone, with absolute privacy throughout our stay. We loved our "home in Tulum", with its simple/elegant interior, luxurious king bed draped in the softest white fabrics, comfortable sitting area facing the ocean, ocean view shower with conch shell shower-head and candles to light in the evening.....etc. etc. etc. I loved being on the ground floor, only steps away from the ocean. Every night we fell asleep to the sound of the waves and the ocean breeze, and every morning I walked out onto the beach to watch the sunrise (glorious!), and then my boyfriend and I would take a long morning beach walk. I have never been on such a long stretch of spectacular white powder beach in my life, where you could wander in either direction, frequently dipping into the ocean, and encounter so few people.

FOOD: Most mornings we loved walking north (to the rocky point) to a beautiful dining palapa with great views at Maya Tulum; for yummy breakfasts including fruit smoothies, coffee drinks, egg dishes, french toast, and banana-pecan pancakes drizzed with chocolate. We usually ventured out (by car) for dinner, and had fantastic meals at Zamas (seared tuna with pureed sweet potatoes); Mezzanine (Thai restaurant with outstanding pad thai, key lime pie, and unusual and delicious drinks); and for a truly special birthday dinner, we drove 10 minutes south to Hechizo at Rancho San Eric (the road has been paved in the past two months). Hechizo is a culinary delight in a very remote place. No menu, only whatever Stefan prepares that day; including an average of 3 choices each - for appetizers, main courses, and desserts; with a great wine selection (ask for his opinion). Don't miss their 'signature' watermelon salad on a bed of watercress topped with goat cheese and a balsamic reduction. The sea bass main course was truly outstanding, paired with a Chilean red wine, and the desserts (created by Stefan's wife Hui) were out of this world...especially the warm flourless chocolate cake with coconut ice cream and passion fruit coulis! Reservations required: average cost for two is $120, including a bottle of wine and dessert. (Stefan is Austrian, raised in Mexico. He and his Korean wife Hui met while working at the Ritz Carlton in Singapore). We only had dinner one night at Ana y Jose, enjoying a freshly-caught grilled whole red snapper, and bananas flambe for dessert (served with great fanfare!) Also loved their pina coladas; and beach service......nice to eat lunch while lounging in the sun.

MASSAGE: One afternoon shortly after arriving in Tulum, we walked south to Coqui Coqui Spa and had a couples massage in a spectacular setting with views of the ocean and the sound of the waves throughout. HIGHLY recommended! That was the point at which my boyfriend truly dropped out into the 'vacation zone' :).......afterward we had chicken fajitas next door at Tita Tulum and continued our walk south past Suenos Tulum Hotel (The only other place I would consider staying in Tulum. No all-inclusives for this pair!.....and thankfully, there were none on the entire stretch of beach we walked in Tulum).

OUTINGS: One afternoon we drove south into the Sian Kaan Biosphere, as far as the visitor center. There is a five-story tower you can climb for the most breathtaking 360-degree view of your surroundings, with the ocean to the east, and a huge inland lagoon to the west. So glad we found the lookout....to see this unique section of the Yucatan Peninsula from above the mangroves. As we were leaving Tulum (to spend three more nights to the north, on Xpu Ha beach at Al Cielo Hotel), we visited the Tulum Ruins, which, of course, are not to be missed. On Friday night we went to Mezzanine to dance under the stars. It's a great weekly happening, with drumming, international guest DJ's, and late-night perfomers on stilts with brightly colored flags! Completely wild!

ONE NOTE OF CAUTION: Before our trip, we had many plans of things to do, including inland ruins, water parks, zip lines, ecological tours, etc......but after landing on the beach in Tulum: my mind emptied, and I dropped into a VERY relaxed place, with no desire to go anywhere or do anything!!!!! Sunrises, long beach walks, swimming, reading, eating, and loving.....that was the extent of our impulses, and it was truly a "once in a lifetime" vacation.

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