A gruelling ride from Bagdogra airport later, we ascended the mountain roads and reached the sleepy town of Pelling in what is said to be one of the best times to visit Sikkim, smack in the middle of October, right after the rains had subsided and the valley readied itself for incoming winters. I felt the tiredness drain out of me as we caught a rare glimpse of the Mt. Kanchenjunga by night, and were welcomed warmly into the Rabdentse Suite (named after the ancient palace, which now lays in ruins) specially arranged for by the owner Mr. Ugyen Chopal, an energetic and knowledgeable man whose passion for his hotel, aesthetics, culture, history and cinema was reflected in every element of the building and it's premises, meticulously sourced from around the world to offer a unique experience (including wooden engraved panels from the East and timber ageing techniques from the Jama masjid area of Delhi) . This is a place where the customer really is king, while utmost care is taken to respect and preserve the sanctity and culture of the region, considered to be sacred.
The buffet breakfast and dinner offered several choices from various cuisines (North/South Indian, continental, local). Morning walks around the resort were an absolute delight. The staff, under the direction of Mr. Chopal's daughter were extremely courteous and attentive to our every need. She arranged for me to spend my day in the in-house library when the call of duty (unexpected work) arrived. I found it well-stocked and informative, apart from overlooking a scenic and peaceful vista. The bar too offered a unique ambience and a wide variety of alcohol and food. Additionally, the property also boasts of an amphitheatre, a spa, a gym, and an organic vegetable garden.
We found ready help with all our sight-seeing queries around Pelling and were able to enjoy our visit to monasteries and the palace ruins better as we were better equipped with our knowledge of the region that we received at the resort. The authentic Sikkimese thali at the end of our stay was a scrumptious experience. Overall, the stay at Chumbi Mountain Retreat was an absolute delight and one that I would love to revisit over and over again!