I stayed in Su Domu Grogu with a few friends in the middle of a (very uncommon) snowy February and before the refurbishment work was complete. Consequently I saw the house and the village of Sagama at their least picturesque. Nonetheless, I liked the house a lot and I had a fine week.
The house is large and comfortable, built in the 1930s I think, for a large extended family. It’s well decorated and furnished, and has solid masonry walls throughout - quiet and coolness are built in. The rooms are large and well-proportioned, as are the hall and landings; the space and airiness impressed me immediately. It's altogether unlike the typical modern holiday villa.
Su Domu Grogu doesn't have a garden but it has a terrace by the front door and a large roof terrace. Both terraces and all the rooms face south, looking down on the high street and the church piazza. The roof terrace has a rustic loggia roof, providing much-needed shade - the sun in spring, summer and autumn is hot and constant.
The house is opposite the village church and looks south across its piazza to open countryside and the Monte Ferru massif twenty kilometres away. The piazza is the physical and social centre of the village, of course. It was landscaped and refurbished in 2010 and it is a wonderful social space, especially in the evenings, especially during the passeggiata.
Sagama has one tiny shop, no bar or restaurant and no other holiday homes or villas. The lack of entertainment didn't seem very important. For shopping we went to the nearby villages, where the walls of many houses are decorated with remarkable murals - some religious, like the one on Su Domu Grogu, some contemporary/quirky/bizarre. For urban entertainment we went down to Bosa, the nice riverside port about 10mins away.
We went for several runs around Sagama and a few cycle rides (there are a couple of bikes in the garage below the house). The surrounding countryside is a rolling green plateau several hundred feet above sea-level.
We didn't have time to visit the island's rock-climbing areas – boulders, mountain crags and sea-cliffs - which are dotted around within driving distance of Su Domu Grogu. We didn't visit the nearby Bosa Rowing Club but rowers and rowing clubs from around Europe regularly do, attracted by the atmosphere and good rowing water of the estuary. We went to Oristano to see Sa Sartiglia - a marvellous 500-year-old festival and equestrian tournament.
The nearest beach is about 10mins drive away, and the coast is typically Mediterranean, with rocky outcrops and small sandy beaches.
|Check-in / front desk||Service|
|Friends getaway||A romantic getaway|
|Older travelers||Families with young children|
|Large groups||Rugged travelers|
Stayed in Su Domu Grogu for a quiet autumn break last year. The house is huge and very well equipped, so it was strange just having the two of us there! However, we chose this villa because it's great value and we wanted to go somewhere sunny and unspoilt - we certainly weren't disappointed by the charming village of Sagama.
The directions and advice that we received from the owner were very helpful, they also gave us some ideas of beaches to go to and places to eat out.
To visit rural Sardinia you will definitely need to rent a car, but it's worth it - we really enjoyed driving around and found some stunning beaches. The nearest town is quite pretty and has supermarkets, shops, restaurants and cafés, but aren't any shops in the village.
A great location to relax (on the beach or on the large sun terrace) and get away from it all. I really hope that we can come again but next time I would bring a group of friends to fill the place and make the most of it, as there is plenty of space for eating, drinking and chilling!
|Check-in / front desk||Service|
|Friends getaway||Older travelers|
|Families with young children||Families with teenagers|