We visited Tarkarli Oct 14th and it is absolutely beautiful and as yet unspoilt but beware they are planning an airport soon so although it will bring prosperity to the area it will not be the same.
Malvan city itself is small and good to wonder alround. We spent a lot of time on Chivala beach just watching the fishing syndicates bringing in the catch. They saw us watching and invo ited us closer to watch without wanting anything in exchange. Everyone seems to congregate at the main beach pier to watch the sun go down amongst the brightly coloured fishing boats. A good place to chill and relax in Malvan itself was the sagar Kinara Hotel.
We tried to stay in the MTDC at Tarkarli but it was full. We booked the Saagar Sangam instead and were so glad as it was much nicer. It is brand new and over looks the beautiful Tarkarli creek with spectucular views from your bedroom with full lenght glass balacony doors. The Hotel itself was top notch and the staff so friendly and helpful. It cost 6 rps from outside the hotel on the local bus to Malvan.
We also booked onto the MTDC houseboat which frankly was a mistake and the usual government rip off for western tourists. It cost almost the same for one night on the houseboat as three nights at the Saagar Sangam. The booking slip stated 10 am check in but the boat didn't leave until 1.20pm We then floated extruciating slowly until 3.30 where they anchored and went for a sleep until 5.30 and then they went back to the mooring for 6pm. We were served dinner at 9.30 which was tasty but frugel playing hunt the paneer and vegetables in the sauce. Only water was served on board which they then charged us extra for. The room was very basic which is fine but a lick of paint, good clean and cockroach spray treatment would not have gone a miss - luxury houseboat as advertised it was not. In the morning they sailed down to the sea at 7 am and served breakfast then were back at the mooring by 9.50 expecting a big tip!! Frankly we saw nothing more than we could see from our beautiful bedroom balcony at sagaar Sangam. In hindsight I'd just get a local boat trip which seemed to have far more fun, see more (they go out to sea to see the dolphins) and stay in a hotel The house boat was a staggering 8400rps + a bill for water
We paid 5000rps for a private car to take us and bring us back 3 days later. Quotes were as high as 7000rps each way! It takes about 2 1/2 hrs from candolim and 3 from more central Goa. Go if you want to get away from the western tourist crowd we only saw Indian tourists for our 3 day trip!