There is good food all over Paris is you look for it and don't just walk in and sit down where it's convenient. These so-called new kids on the block are good. But so are a thousand other places where just as dedicated but less celebrated chefs ply their trade. I get so tired of these monthly pot-boiler articles that do little but create unsatisfiable demand for a very few tables when others just as good go begging.
I guess those of us who don't want to claw our way into these ephemeral trendy restaurants are just uncouth buffoons. You're welcome to my share, Dinky.Edited: 31 March 2014, 11:40
One good thing about getting older is that one knows there is no point reading a NY Times article about anything under the sun.
NYTimes articles on tourism (same holds for other general media such as Time or Newsweek) are to be taken with a bucketload of salt, especially when it comes to the main tourism destination in the world. Places in the spotlight one day can very much turn overtrendy and lazy quite quickly. There are thousands of great restaurants in Paris, whose names have never appeared in a guidebook or English-speaking media, and whose names are not easily shared here for fear of seeing this "trendy pace" set there as well.
I'm not sure if I should admit this, but I have eaten in all but one of the restaurants mentioned in this article, and made repeat visits to a few of them. Only one was by choice, since I already knew the chef.
In all other cases, I was literally dragged into someone's misguided notion of "a superior dining experience": a small, packed, noisy room with bare-bones decor, artfully-arranged bits of food and foam (oddly enough, most places are serving the same items, which is apparently all that is available from "the best suppliers" on any given day) staff and clientele that are younger and more attractive than people who live in the neighborhood, and usually a decent or moderate price for food and wine. When we left, no one was very excited anymore, and nobody had much to say - sort of like a deflated balloon.
Is it French? Who knows what that means, since there have always been foreign chefs in French kitchens, and vice-versa. There's nothing new about this, and it's no big deal, except trying to figure out how these folks got their financing in a seriously-troubled economy.
Is it good? Depends on your definition, but in almost all cases, it has nothing to do with traditional French cuisine. It's usually artfully-arranged, and there is usually foam involved. You might be hungry again in an hour or so. Frankly, I prefer art that is hanging on the wall, instead of lying on a plate - I go to a restaurant to eat.
Is it worth the hype? The "impossible-to-get-reservations" situation is no indication of quality - it simply means that someone has hired a good press agent. If you are a chef-groupie, a rabid blogger looking for "hits", or someone who needs to tick boxes - maybe you need to go to one of these places.
If you are hungry, and looking for a decent meal in a pleasant atmosphere, probably not.
Where is the "like" button for Patty's post (#5)?
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