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Cat Island Trip Report: May 24-31 2013

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215 posts
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Cat Island Trip Report: May 24-31 2013

My wife and I have been to Eleuthera several times but wanted to try a different out island this year. We were looking for something even more deserted than Eleuthera and Cat is advertised as a seriously laid back place that everyone calls “the real Bahamas” so that sounded about right for us.

We have stayed in private rental homes in Eleuthera as compared to a resort type setup and wanted the same for Cat. After some internet research we decided to book the Poodle House which is just outside of Port Howe on the south coast. The owner, Bruce, was great to work with prior to our trip so we had a good feeling about the accommodations.

I did my best to take notes along the way so I could put together a detailed trip report, and will probably bore many with same detail, but I know that information about Cat is hard to come by and the Cat Island TA Forum is not the most active place.

Doug and Gwen

Richmond, Virginia

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215 posts
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1. Re: Cat Island Trip Report: May 24-31 2013

A Year of Preparation

I’m a crazy trip planner. It’s been close to a year since we booked this trip so we had a lot of time to think about it. Pretty sure I have read everything printed about Cat Island along with watching a lot of YouTube videos. I connected with a couple of past renters of our house and fellow TA members who had been to Cat to get their advice and had emailed Bruce many times to ask for suggestions and make arrangements. I also spent a lot to time staring at Google Earth and loading my GPS with waypoints of beaches and other places that I wanted to visit.

I put together a packing list 6 months ago and continued to refine it over and over again. Let’s change 5 t-shirts to 6, drop the nice shirt and add another bottle of suntan lotion, 2 swimsuits or 3? That’s crazy, right? Everyone that we talked to said you don’t need much on Cat other than a swimsuit, a few t-shirts, and some flip flops but we managed to have 2 full sized pieces of luggage jammed full along with a cooler and a couple of carry-on bags.

Some of the highlights of our packing include:

• A soft sided cooler with some chicken, burger, bacon, cheese, and a gazillion Bacardi drink mixers.

• The “Turtle” – another result of my over-planning led me to purchase an inflatable raft shaped like a turtle and big enough to hold a small family. Some of the beach pictures showed water as calm as a lake and I had visions of floating around the ocean, just the 2 of us. Along with the pump to inflate the monstrous float, I think this added over 10 pounds to our luggage.

• Fishing gear – I’ve been carrying a travel rod and fishing gear on 3 trips to the out islands and have managed to catch a total of one fish. But I keep trying.

• 15 cans of suntan lotion – I’m a total freak about sunscreen to the point of having an obsessive disorder. Or at least my wife and kids think so.

• Bug Protection – In 3 trips to Eleuthera, bugs have never really been an issue. I know that one day our luck will change. Every time I would read about someone having success with one bug mixture or another, I would add that to my arsenal. I think I ended up with 3 different sprays and several bug bite treatment meds.

• Ipod and portable speaker because you never can have enough Caribbean music on the beach and it’s not like Radio Cat is going to be rocking the tunes.

• Basketball, football, and kickball (deflated of course) and a small air pump. We took a basketball to Eleuthera on our last trip and the local kids really appreciated a new ball. This time I bought a few different balls to give out.

Pretty sure we were ready to handle the week and had the luggage to prove it.

So here goes….

Mobile, Alabama
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2. Re: Cat Island Trip Report: May 24-31 2013

oh my gosh- more, more!!!! don't stop now!

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3. Re: Cat Island Trip Report: May 24-31 2013

Friday, May 24th

So the day finally came for us to leave for Cat. I remember looking at a calendar and saying it was only six months before we leave, then 3, then a month, then 2 weeks…..

Alarm went off at 4:30 AM and we quickly loaded up the car and left our 3 teenage boys sleeping soundly in their beds on a school morning. What are the chances that they will actually go to school? Our neighbor would check on them and the grandparents were coming by after school to take charge of the household so hopefully nothing too bad would happen.

Our 7:00 AM flight left Richmond on time for the short trip to Charlotte where we boarded our flight to Nassau and arrived at noon. This was the first time for us to use the new arrival terminal and it’s very nice. From walking off the plane to clearing customs took maybe 10 minutes. We never knew about the “left” lane for out island travelers until mentioned here on TA and we zipped through so fast that we then had a good 30 minute wait for our luggage to come out.

The few baggage porters around were focused on the groups who had even more luggage than us so we just began the walk to the inter-island departure area. We hadn’t gotten far and a porter returning asked if we wanted assistance and we loaded his cart up. He walked us to the Sky Bahamas desk and I gave him $10. Wonder if that was light on my part? Check in took all of a couple of minutes and then we had a couple of hours before our afternoon departure.

We hopped in a cab and went to Travelers Rest, which is no more than 10 minutes away. I looked at my watch when the first Kalik arrived and it was 1:20 PM after a 12:00 landing. Not too bad. Neat place to hang out, nice view of the water, comfy couches set up in the covered dining porch so it’s like you are sitting in your living room but with a much nicer view. We shared conch fritters and a grouper dinner, which was delicious. I highly recommend this excursion as compared to just hanging out in the airport if you have a couple hours.

We had not paid the taxi when we arrived and he said to pay him when he picked us up. He showed up on time and took us back to the airport an hour before our departure. The roundtrip fare was around $25 and I gave him $30. We quickly cleared security and waited in the departure lounge for our flight to Cat.

When they called the flight we were informed that we weren’t flying to New Bight, but instead going directly to Arthur’s Town and we would be driven down to New Bight. Never was given a reason for the change but not going to worry about it as no one was asking for my opinion on the change. Bruce was going to be waiting on us to land in New Bight so I sent him a text letting him know of the change and that we could catch up with him somehow.

As always, the flights to the out islands are really the beginning of the vacation as it’s more of a sightseeing trip as you gaze out the window at the beautiful water and watch the reefs and small islands pass by. We landed in Arthur’s Town and shared a taxi with a couple of guys on the flight that were coming to Cat to pick up a boat and drive it back to Ft Lauderdale. So the 4 of us loaded into a taxi, and headed south. First stop was at Yardie’s for some beers for the trip and then we continued our journey to New Bight.

Bruce was waiting at the airport for us so after introductions we loaded up his truck and drove the short distance to the New Bight grocery store which was also where we were picking up a rental car. We bought a few groceries, drinks, water, and a Honda CRV. Definitely our best island car rental to date but the steering wheel was on the right side. Yikes! After a slow start, I quickly got the hang of it and drove it like a pro, according to me and not my wife.

Bruce led us to the house, gave us the tour, showed us where everything was and how it all worked and then left us to ourselves. It was getting dark now, the moon was full, and the sky was covered with stars so we hopped into the outside hot tub for a while before heading to bed after a very long day of traveling.

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4. Re: Cat Island Trip Report: May 24-31 2013

About the house and beach

The Poodle House is everything and more than advertised. We picked it because this is a little bit of a special trip for me and we wanted something nice and thought a splurge was in order. We often said during the week that the house was too nice for us. It has 3 bedrooms, 2 full baths, and a very well equipped kitchen. Everything is tile and granite and all the furnishing are top of the line. Sliding glass doors across the oceanfront side of the house give you beautiful views of the ocean from wherever you are. There are fans throughout the house, dual system air conditioning, washer/dryer, beach towels, beach chairs, Direct TV, tons of books, ice maker, double refrigerators and dishwashers, leather couches, blender, paper products, hair dryers, and everything else you could possible think of. You really don’t need to bring or buy anything as far as the house is concerned. Whenever we thought of something we needed, we just had to look through the cabinets and drawers and we would find it.

The house is located directly on the beach on the south end of the island just a mile or so to the west of Port Howe. Great sandy beach with good swimming and off shore reefs with a beach cabana to get out of the sun if need be. The beach is very private and we never saw anyone else.

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5. Re: Cat Island Trip Report: May 24-31 2013

Saturday, May 25th

One of the items on my “agenda” was to go off shore fishing and Bruce had put us in touch with Roy and Lucille, who occasionally take out guests at the Poodle House for trips on their boat. I had dreams of Mahi Mahi jumping in the boat as this is supposed to be a hot time for dolphin and the main fishing area is just a few hundred yards off shore from our house as the ocean depths go from shallow to thousands of feet deep. Roy and I traded emails as the trip got closer and he was going to be looking for a good weather day during our week. He let me know just before we left that Saturday was looking the best as the winds were predicted to pick up after that.

Lucille met us at the house and drove us a short distance toward Port Howe where we met Roy and their 36 foot fishing boat. We headed out thru a cut in the reefs and out go the lines and as we start trolling for dolphin and anything else that is hungry. Unfortunately, the fish didn’t cooperate today, we only caught a couple of small barracuda and one small tuna. But it was a nice day on the water and the conversation with our hosts was great as we learned more about them and how they had arrived on Cat and even more about life on Cat Island. In the afternoon, we pulled into a small bay called Winding Bay which is easy to get to by water but hard by land. As you pull into the bay the contrast in the water as it turns from dark blue to green to crystal clear and then to blinding white sand was quite a sight. We walked the beautiful beach and snorkeled over some great reefs loaded with fish.

Lucille had mentioned a couple places for dinner so after cleaning up a little we drove north toward Old and New Bight. Neither my wife nor I are the best at listening to directions and we struggled remember exactly what she had said. It’s not like there are lighted signs announcing the location of restaurants, in fact seeing cars is a rare event but there were a couple people walking along the street in Old Bight and we pulled up alongside one guy to ask for directions.

He introduced himself as “Cornelius, the bonefish guy” and after we told him where we were trying to go, he said he would take us there as long as we brought him back later. Okay, hop in Cornelius the bonefish guy! We had a nice chat with Cornelius as he led us north to Regatta Point in New Bight (Old vs. New – part of our problem) for dinner. I had never seen a land crab before, but they were out in force on the road, and they were big. It’s like dodging footballs rolling around on the road, but I think we managed to not squash any of them along the way.

Regatta Point includes a beach and a string of small “shacks” that prepare food and is the evening hangout place for the locals and the occasional tourist. My wife played dominoes with the locals and we had some jerk chicken. I asked Cornelius if I could buy him some dinner and he said he only wanted rum as he was watching his weight. Ok, Cornelius the bonefish guy, its rum for dinner for you.

One of the food shacks was called Duke’s and the owner is famous for conch salad but unfortunately he was out of conch. He had a sweet young son and we gave him a football that we brought with us. Not sure he understood the concept of football but he laughed and laughed as he kicked the ball down the street as others tried to teach him how to catch and throw. I like to collect license plates from the out islands and asked Duke if he had one around. He pulled one out of the back of his truck and gave it to me. I tried to pay him for it but he refused and said “you gave my son a football, thank you very much”.

It was a fun evening in New Bight and a great first full day on Cat. We said our goodbyes and headed back south to drop Cornelius back at home and ended our day.

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6. Re: Cat Island Trip Report: May 24-31 2013

Sunday, May 26th

I turned old today. Where did the past 50 years go? I planned this vacation to make sure I could handle the shock of turning 50, but quickly was up to the challenge as we awoke to a beautiful day looking through the bedroom sliding glass doors and out over the beach and the blue waters beyond. First activity of the day called for a double dose of instant Starbucks coffee and a soak in the hot tub.

Gwen took off for a run and headed toward Port Howe and was going to try and end up at Greenwood Resort. I waited an hour and headed out to pick her up somewhere along the way. I caught up with her pretty close to her destination so we stopped at the resort and had a look around. Seems like a very nice place and the beach was beautiful.

Back at the house, we spent the majority of the day lounging on our beach. One of my sons had loaded his Ipod with Caribbean music for us along with his portable speakers so we spent a while jamming to the tunes and baking in the sun. I decided to try some fishing and see if I could break my string of bad luck fishing the out islands over the years.

To my surprise, I started catching fish immediately. I had no idea what I was catching at first but came to find out they were bonefish. You read about fly fisherman and their fancy fishing gear traveling all over the Bahamas stalking these fish on the sand flats and I’m just throwing a weighted hook with some squid on it and catching one on every cast. Maybe it was a birthday gift from the fishing gods for not cooperating on our Saturday adventure.

Roy had filleted the tuna we caught yesterday so we wanted to try some for lunch. I just took it out of the fridge, sliced up a filet into small pieces and gobbled it up raw. It was delicious and we continued to eat it like that for several days until it was gone.

I did some snorkeling after lunch but it wasn’t very exciting off the house beach. I think I needed to go out further to some of the outer reefs as the ones closer into the shore were grass covered and not much there. Bruce and Roy both said that the snorkeling was very good off shore so I think I really didn’t give it a good enough try.

Now it was time to go pick up Sheila. Bruce had arranged for her to give us massages and prepare my birthday dinner for us. Sheila lives just down the road but didn’t have a car. She set up her massage table on the covered beachfront patio and Gwen and I both enjoyed a long massage listening to the ocean.

After massages, Sheila prepared cracked lobster and dolphin for my birthday dinner. It was delicious. Bruce made a key lime pie (my favorite) as a birthday cake and dropped it by also. We were stuffed.

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7. Re: Cat Island Trip Report: May 24-31 2013

Monday, May 27th

We had no plans for today so that sounded like a good reason to have Pina Colada’s for breakfast and hit the beach. Between spells of lounging I managed to catch a few more bonefish. As I was fishing I noticed a torpedo slowly swimming by just a few feet from the sand. Upon closer review, it was a giant barracuda. So I threw my hook with squid in front of him and he attacked it. It happened so quickly that it made me jump back in the sand causing me to pull the hook out of the water. Regaining my dignity, I put another piece of squid and tried again with more courage this time. As it passed in front of him, he would follow it and then charge it as it got to the surf line but would turn at the last second. I ran back up to the house for more fishing gear and threw every lure that I had with me at him. He liked to chase the silver spoons the best, but after a while I figured he was just playing with me. Just as well I guess as my little rod and reel combo would not have had much of a chance with him but it would have been exciting while it lasted.

It started getting cloudy in the afternoon and rain showers passed thru occasionally so it ended our beach time prematurely. We spent some time in the hot tub with the rain coming down and that was actually fun. After that, Gwen read under the covered porch and I kept the blender filled with tropical concoctions. We cooked the chicken we had brought from home for dinner and called it a day as tomorrow was going to start early and be a long day.

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8. Re: Cat Island Trip Report: May 24-31 2013

Tuesday, May 28th

Road Trip! Today was our day to tour the island as we were staying at the very southern end of Cat and wanted to see the island all the way to the north end. First on the agenda was catching the sunrise at the Hermitage. The alarm went off at 4:30 and we were out of the house by 5:15. We drove about 30 minutes north and followed the signs to the parking spot (meaning the road ended) at the bottom of Mount Alvernia. We loaded up the camera gear, grabbed a couple of flashlights, and started the climb in the dark.

The night sky was cloudy but the rising sun began to turn the clouds red and we were treated to a 360 degree view of Cat. The sun began to peak over the horizon but just fizzled out behind the passing clouds. I wasn’t able to get the classic out island sunrise picture, so that was disappointing, but little did we know that we would not see the sun again for the remainder of our trip.

We explored Father Jerome’s digs, crawling thru its passages and taking pictures. If you visit the Hermitage, bring some cash with you. There was a guestbook in one of the rooms and people had been leaving money on the table but I didn’t have any money with me to leave. We followed a trail that led from the Hermitage toward the beach in the distance but it didn’t seem to be leading us there and turned around. Roy told me later that it leads to the base of the hill to a cave where Father Jerome lived while he was building. Something you might want to check out if you visit.

We climbed back down to our car and began our search for the Atlantic beaches that I had marked on my GPS using Google Earth. I had looked for roads that led directly to what looked like good beaches and had marked 3 of them scattered along the journey to the north. The first one was the top of Greenwood Beach, which runs 8 miles along the SE tip of Cat. We found the access road easily enough in Old Bight and started along a 2+ mile journey that rivals the roughness of the road to Lighthouse Beach on Eleuthera.

There were scattered clearings along the way where farmers were working to get something to grow but hard to tell if anything was growing at this time of year. After forever it seemed, we arrived at the beach I had marked. I think this could be a nice beach but it was covered in ocean trash and the sea was very rough with the increasing winds. This must be a good place for catching lobsters as there were piles of carcasses lying around.

After getting back to Queen’s Highway, we stopped along the road to ask a group of kids waiting for the school bus if we could take their picture. All the kids dress in uniform for school, something I wish our kids were forced to do. We gave them a kickball that we had as thanks for the picture and they were excited.

Next beach I had marked was just outside of Smith Bay. This middle section of Cat is very narrow so the roads to the beaches are much shorter. This was an awesome beach but also suffered from catching all the trash that the ocean delivered to it. But the beach was pretty much a 2 level beach, meaning there was a 3 foot sand drop off in the middle of the beach. The top layer had all the sea trash but the bottom layer was pristine pink sand. We walked this beach for a while. There is a string of houses, that I think it is an abandoned resort, overlooking this beach but hard to tell if any of them were lived in but I can see why they built here.

Last beach I had marked was outside the Knowles Settlement. By the way, settlements on Cat are very small and can easily be missed if you don’t pay attention. Many are just a few houses scattered along the road and are mixed in with old abandoned family homesites that are in various states of disrepair. This is very common on Cat.

The road to this beach was another journey with a couple of forks in the road that required some backtracking. It seemed like we were going through a major goat farm, or at least what is probably major in these parts. There was extensive fencing along the road and you would see a goat every now and then tied up in the brush. At the end of the road we arrived at a very pretty beach. We considered spending some time hanging out here, but there would be no swimming as the sea was very rough and today was all about exploring the island. On a better weather day, I can see spending a lot of time relaxing and swimming the Atlantic Beaches of Cat and can’t imagine you would ever see anyone else on them.

On the way out, we stopped at a place in the goat farm for some pictures of some structures that looked like primitive tree houses. I walked over to look at them and goats started coming out of the woodwork from all directions. That must be where the owner feeds the goats as they surrounded me and started to look at me like I was lunch. Okay, let’s ease out of here.

Next stop was Pigeon’s Cay. No plans to stop there but the sign said it was there and we turned left just because. What a great beach they have. We talked to the owner for a few minutes. He said they were full but we never saw another person as we poked around a little bit but wanted to respect everyone’s privacy.

Continuing north, we stopped at the bat caves which were proudly labeled with a sign that said “Bat Cave”. Bats kinda give me the willies, like being surrounded by hungry goats, so I only ventured about 5 inches into the cave to get my picture taken but my brave wife ventured a little further.

We had stopped by Yardie’s on the way down from Arthur’s Town airport when we arrived but wanted to spend more time there and we were hungry. We ordered some conch fritters and then walked across the street to visit the small library there. This is the 40th (I think) anniversary of their independence and there was a small exhibit in the library that had things displayed that represented life on Cat back then. Pretty sure it hasn’t moved along much from those days but that’s what makes Cat special.

Lunch was great and the conversation was better as we were joined by a couple that had docked their boat in the harbor and walked over for some food. They had been traveling the Bahamas for something like 15+ years and were a joy to talk to as they discussed their favorite places in the Out Islands. We told them where we were staying and they said “Is that the blue roofed house?”. We said yes as The Poodle House has a distinctive blue roof. They said that is the marker they use to know when they are in good fishing grounds off shore. Yardie’s husband, Derek, made us some conch salad to go, we filled the Honda up with gas, and off we went to Arthur’s Town.

We stopped at a small straw shop in what I guess you would call downtown Arthur’s Town. Gwen bought a straw hat and bowls from Emily, the owner. She had some liquor bottles on the floor filled with a strange looking liquid that Emily said was 21 Gun Salute. I had no idea what that was but I should have bought a case as a later found out it is an aphrodisiac bush tea that cures bad backs, colds, fever, blood disorders, and also makes you a very potent dude. What more could a 50 year old need?

While we were in the straw shack, the radio was broadcasting an ominous weather forecast for the next several days with strong winds, heavy rain, and flooding. Emily was deciding how best to secure her straw products if the area flooded. That’s not the forecast that a tourist wants to hear.

We were planning on dinner at Da Smoke Pot, but hadn’t called ahead of time so we needed to stop by and make a reservation for later that evening. We got directions from Emily and once again our lack of attention was an issue. In our defense, the local dialect is a little hard to understand for someone not local. But the island is basically one road, so how hard can it be? After a couple of loops of the area, where we had to keep ducking in a lame attempt to not have the same people waving to us again and again and think we were total idiots, we stopped by a group of guys building a house and they pointed us in the right direction and told us to just “look for the sign”. Duh, never saw that sign before. So we make our dinner reservations, told them what we would like for our entrée, and said we would be back at 6:30.

We continued north to Orange Creek until we reached Shanna’s Cove. Actually didn’t realize that Shanna’s was up this particular road so we kinda just ran into it. Frank and Gabi welcomed us into their bar for drinks and they couldn’t have been nicer people. We asked if we could hang out on their beach and they said of course you can, and Frank even pointed out it was a public beach, but it was nice to use their access. They have a great beach setup and we spent a couple hours lounging, swimming, and walking. There are a lot of houses in this area, at least for Cat, but we never saw anyone else that wasn’t staying at Shanna’s. Tail Winds Resort is also on this same beach. We put in an order for pizza to go as we had read about it on TA and we figured that would be a good breakfast for tomorrow.

We also bought a book at Shanna’s called The Cat Island Guide for $15. Interesting book about Cat Island, nothing critical for you to know about before coming here, but I would have definitely ordered it to read while waiting for vacation to actually happen. On the inside of the cover it says to order copies, contact Jacqueline Campaigne at 242-354-4240.

It was getting close to time for dinner so we said goodbye and left Shanna’s. To make sure we were fashionably late for dinner, we stopped by “Cocktails By The Sea”, run by an elderly lady called Grammy, who said her son owns it. Highly recommend stopping by here as Grammy was wonderful and funny and the oceanfront location was perfect. We had a few drinks and Gwen played dominos with a couple of local guys who were recently off work from Shanna’s.

Okay, now we are late for dinner so we drive a couple hundred more yards to Da Smoke Pot. There was no one eating tonight except us and we enjoyed cracked conch and grouper and conversation with the owner and his wife.

It was now time to start the long drive home to the south coast. I made a bet with my wife that we would see no more than 10 cars on the way. She took the over bet. We passed 8 cars in an hour and a half of driving. This is a seriously deserted island. There were a couple of cars parked along the road and you could see people in the thick brush with flashlights hunting for land crabs. I think the rain causes them to come out of the holes so it was a good time to catch some I guess.

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9. Re: Cat Island Trip Report: May 24-31 2013

Wednesday, May 28th

We woke up several times through the night to the sounds of howling wind and pounding rain. Unfortunately, the forecast from yesterday was coming true.

Not wanting to waste the day worrying about the weather, we headed out to explore the southwest corner of the island where Hawk’s Nest Resort and Marina was located. We checked out the big fishing boats in the marina and then stopped at the resort for lunch. There is a runway for planes here that separates the resort from the marina. It’s a weird feeling to drive across a runway while observing the “plane crossing” sign. We were greeted by Ena who knew who we were and where we were staying. How is that possible? It ended up that Ena was the sister of Sheila who gave us our massage and cooked dinner for us. Turns out there are 4 sisters and 4 brothers so quite a network to monitor happenings on the south end of the island. We had lunch that included fish tacos and cracked conch, all very tasty. I enjoyed chatting with another couple who were diving for white tip sharks, but had decided to head back to Nassau two days early due to the weather forecast…..not us.

Next stop was by Sheila’s house as her son Julius’ makes wooden pieces shaped like Cat Island and we had asked him to make us one to take home. You can see his work scattered around the island. It came out great and will have a prominent place in our home.

Roy and Lucille, our fishing hosts, had recommended we walk the beach from their house in Greenwood south to Little Winding Bay. Rain came and went all day but we wanted to give it a try. You had to leave on the walk an hour before low tide so you would be able to get around some rocks along the way or you would have to swim back and the ocean was pretty angry. This is an incredible beach along the Atlantic and I was glad we made the effort. I think it seriously rivals Lighthouse Beach as the beach is perfect and there are sandstone cliffs along the way. There is also a sailboat wrecked on the beach that was used by a group of Haitians to escape that country and try and make it somewhere. Roy told us the story of how that they landed and scattered but he said several never made it to shore alive.

The access to Little Winding Bay is just past the sailboat and you walk thru a cut in the brush and you are looking at a beautiful curved little bay with perfect sand and protected from the waves by a coral reef off shore. We swam a little and walked the beach but decided to head back as it was getting late and the skies were darkening again.

About halfway back to Roy and Lucille’s, you could see their house along the beach but it suddenly disappeared behind a wall of water and we knew we were going to get very wet before we made it back. Which we did!

After our long rainy day, we stayed in tonight and ate whatever leftovers we had in the fridge. Despite the weather, we had done a few things on our list and all is well.

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10. Re: Cat Island Trip Report: May 24-31 2013

Thursday, May 30th

It was another windy and rainy night. Gwen decided to brave the weather and went for another run, north this time, toward Old Bight. I picked her up an hour later and we continued north to find a bakery for some breakfast snacks. We stopped by a store in Old Bight to ask for directions and there was Cornelius the bonefish guy again. He said the bakery was closed today and gave us directions to Olive’s Bakery in New Bight. Olive had some delicious coconut bread and chocolate pound cake that we loaded up on.

We dropped by Sheila and Julian’s place again and gave them all the food and supplies that we had not used during our stay. They were happy to see us it seemed and we listened to Julian play some music on his new keyboard he had just gotten. Gwen wanted to get her nails done so Julius called his cousin Raynette who does nails at his Aunt Debbie’s beauty parlor and arranged for us to meet them at their little shop in Port Howe. While Gwen was getting her nails done, I drove over the Greenwood to say bye to Roy and Lucille and give them my “message in a bottle”. I wrote a note, added $10, and did my best to seal it up in a wine bottle. We had done this last year in Eleuthera and after a few months someone found it on a small cay off of Abaco. But with the weather, I figured if I launched it myself from shore it would just get thrown back at me quickly. Roy volunteered to drop it at sea the next time he takes his boat out fishing.

After Gwen had her nails done and finished picking up some last minute souvenirs, we walked over to Daisy Mae’s (the 4th sister) place (Sweet Tamarind) in Port Howe and picked up some appetizers for dinner and headed home. I cooked up some leftover dolphin for dinner and mostly puttered around the house packing for the trip home tomorrow.

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