While researching for our trip to istanbul, i encountered literature (Orhan Pamuk's Istanbul) and film (Nuri Bilgi Ceylan's Distances, Climates, etc) evocations of Istanbul in winter snow. I got my wish: on January 8, we landed in a blizzard (airport closed that evening)--and our next five days at Empress Zoe were fantasy. Evening #1--the main street thru Sultanamet, unplowed, playful... More
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