The Retreat is a 150-year-old heritage colonial bungalow in pristine condition, set in an oak, pine and deodar forest estate in the Lake District of Kumaon. The welcoming Indo-German family gladly share their home, lifestyle, and the fascinating history of this 1860s house, and the story of Fred Smetacek, who escaped the Nazis, and his wife Shaheda Smetacek who was a descendant of Tipu Sultan and the Mughals. Delicious home-cooked meals are prepared every day, ranging from Indian to European (including heirloom recipes) to colonial specialities. The area is ideal for barbecues, nature walks, birdwatching, and excursions to the forest and lakes (for we are at the very heart of the best and most unspoilt part of the Lake District of Kumaon). The hospitality and personality of Paddy Smetacek and her children make The Retreat an ideal place to be. The Retreat is particularly suited to writers, artists, naturalists and people working from home, who are looking for a long stay in a unique, safe and comfortable environment. Birdwatchers will see almost all the species they look for in Sat Tal. The Retreat is the ideal place for children to romp around in the open, play with lively and friendly dogs, spend quality time with their parents and enjoy nature and unstructured play time outdoors in our gardens, sprawling grounds and forest.
Jones Estate Near Butterfly Museum, Bhimtal 263136 India
The Retreat, Bhimtal
147 reviews
Getting there
Car recommended
Places to stay are graded on a 0-100 scale. The higher the grade, the easier it is for travellers to find restaurants and things to do within walking distance.
First of all let me apologise to the Owner (Paddy) for this late post. We went to stay over a weekend at Bhimtal with the most gracious host, who runs and keeps this 19th Century Colonial House in its original Shine and Spark. Upon checking in, you would be greeted by the most cute ensemble of dogs who guard/play/sleep/eat with you around the estate.
If you like breaking bread with the owner, while discussing Hugh Laurie and his musical adventures, or just taking a conversational leap into the then days; then this is the place for you. The food is sumptuous, the company is relishing, the ambience which the estate holds is something which is a feast for the eyes.
The rooms are extremely cosy and living there feeled like a marshmallow floating on top of hot coco. The staff is indulgent and takes care of all your needs in the most polite fashion. Upon my request, paddy baked a cake for birthday of my girlfriend and also prepared a special dine-in for us. The scenic beauty of the arrangements not only made the birthday extremely memorable, but also reduced the pain of the aging birthday-girl.
Not only is paddy a great baker/chef, her staff is equally trained in handling the flame. You could witness it in the morning where you would indulge with the varied types and flairs of eggs,marmalade and en entire entourage of flavours plucked from the estate's own gardens .
We also managed to chart a trekking route suggested by Paddy to Sattal from the estate. Which was another feather in the hat of the Host, as she is also a navigator. In short, we were hosted by an entire family of great people, with their own stories, and their passion towards making us feel at home.
Tip: If you are lucky enough, Paddy might allow you to have your wine, in her vintage goblets.
Regards Piyush
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Date of stay: July 2019
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This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Response from Padmini Smetacek, Owner at The Retreat, Bhimtal
Responded 17 Oct 2020
Thank you so much for your lovely and descriptive review - “a marshmallow floating on top of hot cocoa”! - I love it. :-) It was a real pleasure having you come and stay - and hope we will get a chance to renew our acquaintance and share food and conversation.
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The experience at The Retreat, Bhimtal came out to be beyond our expectations. It is located so close to the city, yet very secluded, nested inside this beautiful jungle which once used to be a tea estate. The rustic feeling of the property with the red colour building covered with lots of plants around the property and 6 dogs playing around, made it feel like a home from a story book. The room was spacious and was made cozy with the electric heated blanket, hot water bottles to keep our feet warm and an oil heater. The property also offers a small hike to the ridge behind where we can see beautiful sunsets and can further continue the trail towards Garur tal and Sat tal. And Paddy, the owner, made us feel completely at home her warm hospitality and interesting conversations. The food was home cooked and tasty, with the Pumpkin soup and home baked bread being the star of our stay. The nicest gesture was the cake which Paddy baked herself for my wife's birthday during our stay as a little present.
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Date of stay: November 2022Trip type: Travelled as a couple
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Response from Padmini Smetacek, Owner at The Retreat, Bhimtal
Responded 1 Jan 2023
Thank you, Somesh Sharma, for your lovely, detailed review! It was a pleasure hosting you both. Hope to see you here again, soon! Happy new year!
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The Retreat, a name which perfect because the homestay is a retreat from stress, pollution etc all other problems city folk face and a retreat into peace, tranquility and the simple pleasurable moments like a bird fluttering in the verandah of the house, beautiful sunrise etc. The place is situated a little away from the hustle and bustle in Bhimtal but it is just within reach of all the major tourist haunts. The property is a more than 150 year old tea estate, maintained and kept in pristine condition by the host, Padmini Smetacek, i.e. Paddy Aunty for most of us. Once you reach there, she along with her very efficient staff will take perfect care of you. There are three rooms, you can choose as per your need. I think the best part of our stay was the presence of 6 furry friends, Bo, Pip, Hoshi, Bimble, Poopi & Tessie. They will come in the morning for walks along with you. We enjoyed lovely morning walks and hearty breakfast after the walks. The food is amazing , we were a group of 5 adults and two kids, we were treated to a wonderful culinary experience and not to forget delectable desserts made by Paddy Aunty, which we all relished. Paddy Aunty will help you plan your itinerary as per your needs and interests, even if you don't want to go anywhere, the place with its relaxed vibe, vast collections and cozy nooks and corners will make you relax. All in all , if you want your holiday to be enjoyable, relaxed and stress free for you and your kids just go to the Retreat and see for yourself. I can't wait to go again !!
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Date of stay: May 2024
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Trip type: Travelled with family
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The Retreat is certainly one of the best homestays that you will find in Bhimtal, Uttarakhand. Located in Jones Estate and just about 10 minutes from Bhimtal Lake, it is a British era bungalow that is nestled in the lap of nature. We visited The Retreat in June 2021 and it had everything we needed to feel at home and more importantly it is an ideal place for nature lovers and foodies. At the Retreat, one can enjoy the serene surroundings, long treks, work remotely enabled by a decent Wi-Fi connection, or spend quality time with family or friends. The Retreat is run by Padmini (Paddy) who is truly a Superhost and a wonderful lady! Paddy along with her family and staff treat you to sumptuous meals and I must say that the food prepared by them is way better than the Cafés or Restaurants that you find in Delhi NCR. Furthermore, in case you’re a Dog lover then there are six lovely Dogs that are energetic, friendly and love you unconditionally. My family has carried many unforgettable memories of The Retreat and of course, want to visit it again soon!
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Date of stay: June 2021
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This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Response from Padmini Smetacek, Owner at The Retreat, Bhimtal
Responded 8 Jun 2021
Thank you so much for the fabulous review -- especially we are touched by your praise of our beloved dogs! :-) It was a pleasure having you and your lovely family here, and to make good food for you. We all look forward to having you here again, soon! Just as guests value good hosts, hosts value good guests, and so you and your family are valued by us. We are indeed fortunate we get so many absolutely wonderful people like you for guests, who become friends for life. It is the greatest bonus in running The Retreat!
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The property is reminiscent of a bygone era that takes one back to the early 20th century Kumaon foothills when colonial bungalows weaved magic. One finds oneself in the midst of a verdant forest area that is barely a stones throw from the bustling lake area. The Retreat is a home-stay and truly a retreat that was an abode away from home. The meals (we opted for Continental) were delicious and the spread was lavish. The hostess Paddy was very warm and welcoming. She saw to every detail in making our stay comfortable and memorable. We've stayed in many home-stays earlier but would like to give the Retreat highest rating because of personal care and we would love to keep revisiting. God Bless Paddy and her team.
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Date of stay: February 2024
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Trip type: Travelled with family
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Response from Padmini Smetacek, Owner at The Retreat, Bhimtal
Responded 22 Apr 2024
Thank you so much for your kind words! You understand exactly what kind of experience we give - to go back in time to a relaxed, comfortable, gracious lifestyle in tune wwith nature, with delicious food made from the best locally sourced ingredients. The Retreat is your home when you're here!
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The retreat is a quaint, comfortable haven in the hills of Bhimtal. The best place to unwind, warmest hosts and the best fur therapy one could ask for. We spent 4 nights in the green room and by the time we left, were wondering why we weren't staying longer. The food was exceptional, Robbie is a whiz when it comes to whipping up elaborate dinner spreads. The homemade breads are a treat and everything was truly delicious. Carry a book, spend time with the band of 6 dogs who are absolutely adorable, with Bo's morning alarm being my personal favourite. There are plenty of small trails to go on long winding walks, days will pass in the hilly bliss. The bonfire nights were superb and spent a couple of evenings with some very interesting people. It's a comfortable stay which is immaculately clean. Paddy and Ela kept engaging with us and made us feel at home. We will definitely be back very soon. Go glad to have found this gem of a place!
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Date of stay: November 2021Trip type: Travelled with family
Room Tip:The green room is very comfortable for 3-4 people
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Response from Padmini Smetacek, Owner at The Retreat, Bhimtal
Responded 27 Nov 2021
Thank you, Janavi! What a lovely review! Your kind words make us more happy than you can imagine... It was a pleasure having you and your family stay with us. We look forward to seeing you here again soon!
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The Retreat is a small home stay located close to Bhim Tal lake. Once you reach Bhimtal, you will still have to climb and travel on a small road which takes you to this property. The place has 3 large rooms/suites and you will have to book in advance with the owner - Padmini Smetacek.
Once you reach the place, you realise how comfortable the place is. You can lounge around all day if you wish with a book (there is a small collection of books to keep you busy). Or you can take a quick walk to Saat Tal (takes about 45 mins) or to Bhim Tal (30 mins). They organised a Parasailing trip for some other guests who were staying at the same time as us.
The food is awesome - all the veggies are fresh and the cooking style is unique. We also went down to the village to sample a “Pahadi lunch”. Again this was delicious. The best part is the desserts which are prepared by Padmini. All the food that is served is awesome.
I would strongly recommend a trip there. Do not expect a TV - there is an Internet connection available though. The idea of this place is to enjoy the peace and solitude (and of course, the food !).
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Date of stay: May 2024Trip type: Travelled as a couple
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Response from Padmini Smetacek, Owner at The Retreat, Bhimtal
Responded 6 May 2024
Dear Debabrata, thank you for your kind words! It was, a pleasure having you both here, and we hope to see you again soon. Warm regards!
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We came across The Retreat while looking for a place to stay enroute while returning to NCR from Ranikhet. From the first Hello from Padmini Iyer Smetcak I was impressed. Clear, informative and caring. The website accurately reflects her meticulous attention to detail. The Retreat is like an old time planters bungalow, modernized to provide you the necessary conveniences without changing the period feel. So don't expect Jaquar shower in a tiled bathroom! What you get is a REAL homestay in Padmini's unique home set deep in woods. It is as if time is standing still..tranquility, serenity and warmth are the adjectives that leap to mind...the cohort of friendly dogs adopted by the family adds to the feeling that one belongs! We were fortunate enough to be accompanied by one of them (Hoshi) on our wanderings in the surrounding woods Last but not the least feature of the Retreat which won our hearts ( and stomachs( was the lovely food prepared with care and experience We gorged on the perfect pancakes, slurped over the smashing soft scrambled eggs and gobbled the mutton goulash. We travelled back with a haul of freshly baked multigrain Bread, scones and mini chicken pies ...plus a load of wonderful memories. If you are looking for a big TV in your room and proximity to fast food joints, stay away but if you want to find yourself and meet a wonderful family ( from Padmini's gracious mum to her sweet children, book a stay at the Retreat, Bhimtal
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Date of stay: October 2021Trip type: Travelled as a couple
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Response from Padmini Smetacek, Owner at The Retreat, Bhimtal
Responded 4 Oct 2021
Thank you so much, Banashri, for your warm and beautifully written review. It has added a sparkle to my morning! It was just as much of a great pleasure and privilege meeting you and your husband, and enjoying your entertaining and erudite conversation. I hope we shall see you here again!
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We were three friends who visited Paddy and her lovely family in October 2020 (with all precautions in place against COVID) and it was a memorable time! The colonial estate itself is striking and full of stories, you feel enchanted the moment you arrive. Paddy's family, including her six happy dogs, are warm and welcoming, and we were so lucky to spend quality time with all of them. However, as many have pointed out, the kitchen is remarkable and we were absolutely delighted with the food and bakes-- both done with skill and care. The whole ambience feels spiritual almost, with enough beautiful pines and butterflies for company.
I personally cannot wait to see Paddy and the house again, and am very grateful for the hospitality.
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Date of stay: October 2020
Cleanliness
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This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Response from Padmini Smetacek, Owner at The Retreat, Bhimtal
Responded 17 Oct 2020
Thank you, Aayushi! It was a pleasure having you and your friends here. Hope to see you here again soon!
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This place was highly recommended by friends, and we are more than glad that we took up their suggestion to finally visit. Fabulous stay. Festive spreads. Friendly dogs. Fancy puddings. Flexible hours. Forthright conversations. A warm hearth and even warmer hearts. A place where we could rejuvenate and recharge. Thank you, the Smetacek family, for hosting us.
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Date of stay: December 2022
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Response from Padmini Smetacek, Owner at The Retreat, Bhimtal
Responded 14 Jan 2023
Thank you, Mimi0896 for such kind words! You were also wonderful, warm guests who quickly became friends over the Christmas holidays. We hope to see you here again and often.
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Hi Vikas, we have two suites of two bedrooms each available on 1, 2, 3 June. A total of 9 beds in four bedroom, with space for three extra beds. Each suite has an attached bathroom. Yes, we serve vegetarian meals, as well as Jain, vegan, etc.
Hi, sorry about the delay in replying. We can accommodate a maximum of 15, using extra beds. We have two suites of two 2-bedded rooms each plus a very large double room that can take an extra 3 beds.
There are more places to choose from in the Bhimtal area.
LOCATION
IndiaUttarakhandNainital DistrictBhimtal
NUMBER OF ROOMS
3
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