Ayesha Manzil
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About
See why so many travellers make Ayesha Manzil their small hotel of choice when visiting Thalassery. Providing an ideal mix of value, comfort and convenience, it offers a quaint setting with an array of amenities designed for travellers like you.
Guest rooms offer amenities such as air conditioning, and guests can go online with free internet access offered by the small hotel.
The property also boasts a pool and free breakfast, to help make your stay more enjoyable. If you are driving to Ayesha Manzil, free parking is available.
Given the close proximity of popular landmarks, such as Thalassery Fort (1.7 mi) and English Church (1.8 mi), guests of Ayesha Manzil can easily experience some of Thalassery's most well known attractions.
If you are looking for a good Asian restaurant, you may want to check out Rara Avis Restaurant or Paris Presidency Restaurant while staying at Ayesha Manzil.
Looking to explore? Then look no further than Catholic Rosary Church (1.1 mi) and Fisherfolk Temple (1.0 mi), which are some popular Thalassery attractions – all conveniently located within walking distance of the small hotel.
We’re sure you’ll enjoy your stay at Ayesha Manzil as you experience all of the things Thalassery has to offer.
Location
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The food was fantastic, fresh and lots of choice, you don’t leave hungry.
The building itself is old, fascinating, quirky and needs some tender loving care after two years with no guests due to COVID, and hopefully they’ll be able to restore the garden and pool to their previous splendour soon.
A lovely place with a very personal touch
The house itself was built by an English trader, Murdoch Brown, who worked for the East India Company. It is in traditional merchant style with vast rooms, high ceilings, heavy wooden floors and antique furniture. Above all it is spacious, private and full of sea breezes. Murdoch Brown established the largest cinnamon garden in Asia and Ayesha Manzil was his home on the coast. In 1900 the house was bought by a local Muslim family. The purchaser's grandson Mr Moosa now owns and runs the house as a small hotel. It's unlike anywhere else.
There are only a few rooms. They are full of character, comfortable but not at all modern boutique in style. We stayed in one of the upstairs suites which was wonderfully old-fashioned and full of family furniture and dark wooden Keralan furniture.
The house is situated in a well established, rather neglected garden that looks out on the sea on three sides. There are small terraces in the garden and up above the porch where guests enjoy privacy, sea-views and peace. Meals are served on the verandah or on one of the terraces.
This would be enough to make Ayesha Manzil a very special property but it has two other great advantages.
Mrs Moosa is a seriously wonderful cook. The food at Ayesha Manzil is locally sourced and absolutely wonderful. Best of all guests are invited by Mr Moosa to accompany him to the colorful fish market and to the fruit and vegetable markets first thing in the morning to choose what will be cooked and served in the evening. Fish doesn't get any fresher. Ayesha Manzil is a foodie's paradise.
The second unforgettable thing about Ayesha Manzil is that you have the opportunity to experience the THEYYAM ritual of Northern Kerala. We thought this one of the most amazing experiences of our travels in India. It is described in a chapter of William Dalrymple's wonderful NINE LIVES. We gather that Dalrymple stays at Ayesha Manzil and that it was one of the staff here who first introduced him to Theyyam. Theyyam is an extraordinarily exotic trance-dance ritual during which a member of the lowest caste, a Dalit, actually "becomes" a Goddess. It is entirely authentic. We were the only Europeans present. The costumes and body paint are amazing. Read NINE LIVES for an account of the Theyyam.
Ayesha Manzil is not for those who like their travel to be pre-packaged, familiar and bland. The house is not your traditional five star luxury. It is full of character and comfortable. The food is outstanding and the experience of Theyyam is something for the memory bank.
Ayesha Manzil is a large old Colonial house, it is run by Faiza Moosa and her husband. They have 9 staff who look after your every need.
There are 6 very large guest rooms all of which have ensuite bathrooms and air conditioning, furnished in old tradional style to suite the house. The beds were very comfortable.
I was treated to a 2 hour cookery lesson with Faiza which was a wonderful experience - she certainly is a great cook and teacher. It was great to have the cookery book especially produced by Faiza to take home with me.
The only negative I have was that we only stayed one night ! Thank you Faiza and staff for the warm hospitality.
The first night we were the only couple staying there (they had had a last minute cancellation) but a Belgian couple came for the evening meal so we ate with them. The second night another English couple stayed as well. The family do not eat with you. Food was excellent and Mrs Moosa gave us a cookery demonstration on the second day. The room was huge with separate dressing room, antique furniture, four poster bed and air con.
Recommended
That was the heading we gave to our review of Ayesha Manzil three years ago. We often say “Never go back,” as so often returning to a favourite place becomes an exercise in disappointment. Nothing ever stays the same - Apart from Ayesha Manzil that is.
There are few hotel owners who claim to disregard TripAdvisor reviews but Moosa (as he asks to be called) at Ayesha Manzil is one. He claims his business relies entirely on word of mouth recommendations. He is a consummate networker and seems to know everyone in the hospitality business in South India (and possibly beyond). Moosa is extraordinarily good at suggesting marvellous ways to occupy your time whilst staying at Ayesha Manzil including unforgettable visits to Theyyam, afternoon visits to a beach safe for swimming, and trips to local sights.
As is clear from the reviews here, a major attraction is the property’s distinction as a foodie destination. Guests are invited to go to the fabulous fish market in the mornings to choose the food for that night’s dinner. It is certainly unlike the fish counter at Waitrose, here things are scaley, bloody, sometimes only just stopped flapping and sometimes as large as a human corpse. The fishing boats at the back of the market are busy filling up the stalls as the fish sells.
You are invited to help in the kitchen should you wish. There is a recipe book available written by the celebrated Faiza Moosa, a charming and generous hostess and consummate cook. Meals are included and breakfasts lunches and dinners are exceptionally delicious and interesting. We have encountered many Indian home-stays with parts of this formula but none with the lot or so successfully carried through. The dinner table is central to the hospitality and reputation of the property.
The house and site are also part of the charm of Ayesha Manzil. The premises are a heritage house on a headland overlooking the Arabian Sea. It’s furnished with period furniture, hardwood floors and many original features. There is an established garden able to provide early fresh mangoes.
The swimming pool is small but charming and overlooks the sea.
This adds up to a formula that Europeans, especially Brits, love. To substantiate Moosa’s claims about word-of-mouth, many clients are repeat guests. Some come regularly.
As we all learn, there are serpents in paradise, and Ayesha Manzil doesn’t work for everyone. Were my best friend about to book in to the property there are a few caveats I would offer.
The major one is to do with the fact that it is a heritage property which doesn’t necessarily mean twenty-first century luxury, let alone comfort. As other reviewers have commented the floorboards creak, the doors don’t always close smoothly, the bathrooms function well in their own eccentric way and though the rooms are spacious and there many characterful chairs in the bedrooms, there are few comfortable ones. The lights and wiring are antique and unhelpful to the literate. Frankly, you need to be a little forgiving or spartan to relish the bedrooms. There is air-conditioning. There is no television (thank goodness). Wi-fi is free and works well on the downstairs verandah.
The bathroom may be a challenge. As in many Indian properties there is no plug in the wash-hand basin and the excellent hot water is supplied for the shower only, not the basin. The shower itself is in an unusual tiled enclosure with two pillars and steps, a challenge to the maladroit. Everything is adequately clean though not fastidiously so. Don’t expect lavish toiletries nor a hair-dryer.
Mosquitoes are a problem, though our beds were netted and there are plug-in anti-mozzie appliances. If you are sitting out in the early evening you will need protection from the small but insistently voracious mosquitoes.
There is a major road between the house and the sea below the cliffs so traffic noise can be heard at times.
With only possibly three other couples staying, you need to be happy to share meals and chat. All meals are served with the guests at one table. The experience depends greatly on who your fellow guests are. On the other hand where more people stay, there is often a formality, a stand-offishness, whereas here, in our experience, everyone does get along happily. The nature of those who come to Ayesha Manzil is such that it is very much the case of it being kindred spirits. At least there are people who can find much in common including shared experiences of the many properties in the south.
In our opinion it is quite unlike any other small property or homestay. It is strongly characterful and, though you understand why people are fiercely enthusiastic about it, equally it seems reasonable to not get on with what it offers. It may be the Marmite factor – you either love it or dislike it.
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