Houhai was probably the most touristy area we went to in Beijing. There are people trying to sell you bike rides, boat rides, food, and hand made goods. We went to see the traditional hutongs and try some street food. We did both, which were awesome, and the area was buzzing with people. We ended up stopping at a bar on the infamous Houhai bar street. There is dozens to choose from all with different themes, but they are EXPENSIVE. We paid £20 for one beer and one cocktail (which is more expensive than London). So I’d say pop into a bar or two for happy hour, but stay away during other times. It is worth walking through Houhai and the Back Lakes, indulge in some local delicacies and enjoy the view, but be prepared for the more modern tourist experience