This is a must see for both the tradition and the spectacle. The atmosphere here is like being at a live concert , singing and dancing by the locals prior to the ceremony is definitely a warm up act!! We recommend you buy a flag as flag waving is compulsory and great fun. The friendly rivalry between India and Pakistan in both the kicking and funny walk has a serious side to it and as a visitor you are reminded of the tensions that can emerge between the two states since the partition. However this is clearly something that both tourist and Indian can enjoy....and you get to wave to those in another country just 100yds away!

We arrived before everything commenced, sitting near the gates in the tourist section, the large grandstand holding thousands of locals holding their flags and readying for action. Wasn't long before the BSF (Border Security Force) MC had the crowd in a controlled frenzy whilst on the Pakistan side of the border watched on seemingly bemused. From then the ritual and well rehearsed performance on both sides of the border commenced with the high kicks, marching, threatening fist pumps at those doing similar things on the other sides of the gates until the gates opened to a massive cheer, all the time the very loud music keeping the excitement building. Eventually the flags of both nations were lower in perfect synchronisation with each other and the whole performance was over. Surprising and astonishing performance.

The Retreat ceremony at Wagah/Atari border is a fabulous patriotism stirring ceremony held daily at the Indo-Pak border about an hour away from the heart of Amritsar. We visited the ceremony in winters when the timing was 5-5:30pm. It occurs about an hour later during summers since the ceremony is before sunset. There is a huge amphitheater style open stadium to sit and watch the ceremony. The ceremony begins usually half an hour earlier when they play patriotic songs and invite women and girls to dance to the tunes. After half an hour of fun and dance, the choreographed ceremony begins usually with the same steps on both the ends. The crowd continuously cheers and shouts and the environment turns magical. The ceremony ends with folding of the flags at both the ends. There is a parking spot available just next to the security check up so avoid parking the car a kilometer before like some people might suggest just to make some money. The parking is huge and is just next to the check point. You definitely need your valid IDs to get through. Trying reaching an hour before so that you are not rushed at the tolls, security lines and even while entering the parking lot.