We came to Nor Yauyos Cochas Reserve from Huancayo, roughly a 4-hour drive (with many photo stops) to get to the village of Huancaya, located at the heart of the reserve. We decided to go on a tour and not public transport as we wanted to be able to make stops and photos along the way, which was totally worth it. The drive is now easier as the road is paved almost all the way, except from the turn off to Huancaya and Vilca. We crossed two high passes at 4600m and 4700m, the scenery along the way was spectacular with many lakes, llama herds, scenic villages (especially Tomas) and incredible Uchco Canyon. As soon as you enter the Nor Yauyos Cochas reserve you enter a magical land of towering canyons and never-ending waterfalls. We visited the areas of Huancaya and Vilca, spending two nights in the small scenic village of Huancaya. The only thing that lets the area down is the lack of proper accommodation, if we had found something comfortable we would certainly have stayed longer, unfortunately given my fragile back and awful mattresses, this was not an option. We came on a week day when the area is deserted. I would not recommend coming at weekends and certainly not during national holidays as the area apparently gets jam packed with Peruvian tourists. Strangely there is no entrance fee to enter the actual reserve, but you have to pay S/10 soles in Huancaya and another S/10 soles in Vilca. Both control points were closed though when we visited as there were virtually no other tourists around. To get to Lima from Huancaya you first have to take a car/combi to Magdalena (1h30 of driving along magnificent scenery within a narrow canyon), which leaves between 6 and 7am, then another combi to Cañete (2h30 of hair-raising driving along the beautiful Cañete river). Apparently there are sometimes direct buses from Lima to Magdalena. From Cañete it is a 2-hour drive to Lima, many buses offer the journey. The Nor Yauyos Cochas Reserve, despite being little-known to foreign tourists (as it is barely mentioned in most guidebooks) offers unique, magnificent scenery, which easily rivals that of any more famous sites in Peru. The scenery is truly spectacular and surprisingly varied from endless rows of cascades, to deep turquoise trout-filled lakes, huge canyons and quaint villages. The boat ride on Lake Huallhua is definitely worth it, as well as the incredibly beautiful hike from there back to Huancaya (the opposite shore from the jetty is best). Another highlight is the drive from Huancaya to Vilca, where the vastness of the landscape takes another dimension. In the small village of Vilca you will find a series of cascades and some great viewpoints.

Tips to get there: apparently only one bus will get you close to Huancaya district, this is where you really want to go. The bus is called Rochaz, is located in a small office on the other side of the street from Flores bus service. The bus Rochaz (50 soles) will take you straight to Magdalena in a 7 to 8 hour trip, the bus is somewhat comfortable, very economic quality. Once it drops you in Magdalena, you can catch a ride to Huancaya for 20 soles or if in luck Rochaz will cover your ride to Huancaya. Huancaya is very small, it has local accommodations and 3 small hotels (30 soles a bed). From Huancaya you can catch a guide (70soles) that will take you to see some lakes and rivers. There's a local restaurant that almost every local will tell you to go to, a must try is the grill trucha (best fish ever meal). The lakes, rivers, mountains and wildlife, is spectacular. I went on Feb and during the day it was nice to walk around, but once the evening strikes, it gets freezing cold. I heard that in Summer is even colder at nights, so make sure you take winter jacket. I would have gladly stay a week, but due to my travel extend I only stayed 2 nights, which is enough to view the lagoons. Hotels offer warm water, but it only lasts 3 minutes, no wifi, no phone signal unless is claro (no data). I didn't need repellent, but for Summer maybe? - leave at 7 am or you won't be able to find cars from Magdalena to nearest location to catch a bus.