The Painted Hall, in the heart of Greenwich’s Old Royal Naval College, is a worthwhile attraction if you are exploring Greenwich and its UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site. It’s often referred to as ‘London’s Sistine Chapel’, but if you’ve ever visited the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican City in Rome (as I have done, many times), you would know that that reference is a fair stretch of the imagination. However, it is something to behold, and the detailed ceiling is a triumph of early 18th century art.
The building which contains the painted ceiling, and the almost symmetrical building opposite, were designed by Sir Christopher Wren. The buildings were originally constructed to serve as the Royal Hospital for Seamen at Greenwich, and were built between 1696 and 1712. However it appears that the main hall, the eating space for the Greenwich Pensioners who lived at the Royal Hospital, wasn’t quite fancy enough, so artist Sir James Thornhill was brought in to create the masterpiece you see on the ceiling today. The epic painting scheme took 19 years from the start of the commission to its completion in 1726.
The Painted Hall features 40,000 square feet of walls and ceilings. These surfaces are covered in striking and colourful images depicting 200 figures including kings, queens and mythological creatures. It is a beautiful baroque pies of art, and it is certainly worth seeing. The detail is breathtaking, and the imagery and allegorical references are stunning.
To appreciate it you really need to take the time to understand the various components of the work. We found the hand-held, book-like illustrative guides available in the hall were really helpful, detailing who and what the multitude of figures and images represented, and where to find them on the very detailed paintings. This takes time, so you need at least a good hour to explore the painting and to appreciate the grandeur of the ceiling.
A visit to the Pained Hall used to be free, but it closed in 2017 for a much-needed restoration, reopening again in 2019. It’s no longer free. Our visit, for two people, cost £27.00. Tickets for timed entry can be bought on-line, but we obtained our tickets at the Visitor Centre within the building, for immediate entry. On-site availability is not always available. A concession for Seniors is not available.
Whilst visiting the Painted Hall, you may want to seek out the spot where Lord Nelson lay in state, in January 1806. The exact spot where the coffin lay is marked by a plaque on the floor.
Our ticket allowed us to visit a historic Skittle Alley in the vaults between the Painted Hall and the Chapel of St Peter and St Paul. It’s a rare example of an early Victorian past time, originally built for the amusement of the Greenwich Pensioners in 1864. Your visit allows you to try your luck and roll three wooden balls down the alley. It’s a bit of fun.
It's worth a visit. But it's not the Sistine Chapel.