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All Articles What to do in Vail, CO, when it's not ski season

What to do in Vail, CO, when it's not ski season

For year-round, long-weekend fun, follow Preethi Chandrasekhar's footsteps in Vail.

Tommie Ethington
By Tommie Ethington4 Nov 2022 4 minutes read
Sunset at Piney Lake near Vail, Colorado
Piney Lake near Vail, CO
Image: Adam Springer/Getty Images

In our Where To series, we tag along as eight fascinating travel influencers jaunt from coast to coast in search of the best meals, experiences, and more, all inspired by our Travelers’ Choice Awards. Browse all of the itineraries on our Where To hub.

Preethi Chandrasekhar (@eagertravele) didn’t grow up spending time in the outdoors but has since made it her mission to “demystify” the experience for others. During a weekend trip to Vail in late summer, she discovered there’s a lot more to the resort town than skiing. From glamping and glam picnics to oxygen bar spa treatments and hikes with epic mountain views, read on for her favorite finds.

Day one: Get settled

Guest room at Sonnenalp Hotel in Vail, Colorado
Kampachi Crudo at Sweet Basil in Vail, Colorado
Aerial view of Vail, Colorado in winter
From right to left: Guest room at Sonnenalp Hotel, Kampachi Crudo at Sweet Basil, Aerial view of Vail, CO in winter
Image: Management/Tripadvisor, Kruck20/Getty Images

After flying into Denver International Airport and making the two-hour drive to Vail, you might find yourself wondering if you’ve somehow teleported to Europe. The small Colorado mountain town was inspired by the Bavarian villages found throughout Germany and much of the architecture and cuisine match that aesthetic.

Drop your bags at the upscale Sonnenalp Hotel—a Travelers’ Choice Best of the Best winner—and head to the in-house Bully Ranch Restaurant for Southwestern fare like wild boar green chili nachos and truffle tater tots. Then, treat yourself to some R&R at the Sonnenalp Spa. The luxury oasis has sauna and steam rooms, multiple hot tubs, and a connected indoor/outdoor pool that’s heated year-round. But the most unique feature is an oxygen bar focused on combatting the effects of altitude (Vail sits at 8,150 feet above sea level). Choose your “flavor” (peppermint is a go-to) and enjoy the benefits of a 10–30 minute treatment.

Once rejuvenated, walk to Vail Village, where cute shops, restaurants, and bars abound. Dinner is at Sweet Basil, a hub for contemporary American fusion cuisine. Order the kampachi crudo for next-level flavor or the whipped feta, which comes encased in a crispy flatbread that has to be cracked with a spoon. The presentation makes for a great Instagram moment, but, rest assured, the appetizer—which is topped with rosemary powder and kalamata olive honey—is just as good as it looks.

Day two: Explore Vail Mountain

Wildflowers in the Gore Mountains, Vail, CO
Fondue at Alpenrose in Vail, CO
Wildflowers in the Gore Mountains (L), Fondue at Alpenrose Vail restaurant (R)
Image: Adventure_Photo/Getty Images (L), Management/Tripadvisor (R)

Start your morning at The Little Diner with the house specialty: pannekoeken, an airy, German-style pancake that is akin to a souffle. From the Travelers' Choice Award–winning diner, it’s not far to the base of Vail Mountain where you can take a scenic gondola ride to the top. The views alone are worth the trip, but the summit is also the starting point for several hikes, including the Fireweed Trail. The mellow trek provides stunning views of wildflowers and the surrounding Gore mountain range. Take another gondola, the Eagle Bahn, back down from the trail’s endpoint or opt to retrace your steps and return to Gondola One for a total of 2.1 miles round trip. For a slightly longer hike try the 2.6-mile Meadows Loop or, for an even bigger challenge, the eight-mile Berrypicker Trail.

Quote of Preethi saying, "If you're going to hike, give yourself a day or two to acclimatize. I think people tend to forget about the altitude, but it's a real thing.”

In the afternoon, visit the 10th Mountain Whiskey & Spirit Company tasting room for a barrel-aged cocktail or spirit flight. The Alpenglow Cordial—with notes of sage, peach and vanilla—is not to be missed. Then, you’re in for another treat at Alpenrose Vail, a cozy chalet-style restaurant with German, Austrian, and Swiss delicacies like cheese fondue and quinoa rosti.

If you can, make it an early dinner so you’ll have plenty of time (and daylight) to pick up some breakfast supplies and head down the unpaved road to Piney River Ranch, a glamping retreat located 45-minutes north of Vail and your home for the next two nights.

Day three: Relax on Piney Lake

Gore Range at Piney Lake, Colorado
Gore Range at Piney Lake, CO
Image: Beelde/Photography by Daniel Huerlimann/Getty Images

Rise early and you could be rewarded with wildlife sightings (Piney River Ranch is a prime moose habitat), reflections of mountain peaks on a glassy lake, and your pick of a paddleboard or canoe when the first-come, first-served rental shop opens at 9 a.m. Take your vessel of choice out for a spin on Piney Lake, try your hand at fishing, or hike to a nearby waterfall.

For a different type of outdoor experience, book lunch with Picnic Vail. The company specializes in creating over-the-top picnics in places like the Travelers' Choice Award–winning Betty Ford Alpine Gardens and the setup is as beautiful as the setting—picture a low table with pillows, blankets, a charcuterie board, conversation cards, and even a Polaroid camera to capture the fun. Pamela Davis, Picnic Vail’s founder, is a fourth-generation Vail resident whose grandfather built Vail Ski Resort.

Quote of Preethi saying, “Everyone thinks Vail is just a ski destination for the wealthy, but it’s also an amazing summer and fall destination. There are beautiful hikes, canoeing, and glamping—something for everyone.”

For more local history, check out the Colorado Snow Sports Museum and Hall of Fame. The donation-based museum details the history of skiing and snowboarding, as well as Vail’s role in training the 10th Mountain Division, a WWII army unit that fought in the mountains of Italy.

For your final night, take your pick from the many Vail Village restaurants. Travelers' Choice Award winne Annapurna, serving Nepali and Indian cuisine, is ideal if you want to play it by ear, as it's walk-ins only. Order the butter chicken and you won’t be disappointed.

Before heading to the airport in the morning, stop off at Big Bear Bistro for strong coffee, delicious crepes and a quaint outdoor patio perfect for soaking in the mountain air one last time.

Preethi’s picks:

Best bite of food: The Bully Ranch restaurant’s truffle tots were delicious. I could actually taste the truffle oil and the red chili flakes added the perfect kick.

Most hospitable hotel: The staff at the Sonnenalp Hotel were so kind and courteous. They got me extra cookies, extended my checkout time so I could sneak in a shower post morning hike, and let me keep my rental car parked there even after I checked out.

Most photogenic place: Canoeing on Piney Lake in the early morning was a sight I will never forget. The lake was like glass and reflected the mountains. The photos I shot there are some of my favorites.

Best activity you stumbled upon: We went back to 10th Mountain Whiskey & Spirit Company after dinner one night and discovered they have live music in the evenings. Everyone was belting out a really popular tune together and it just felt like a very small town vibe.

Biggest mishap: Because it was the summer, I wasn’t expecting it to be so cold inside our tent at Piney River Ranch. I had a hard time keeping the fire going and was especially thankful when the morning arrived! If you don’t like the cold, consider renting one of the ranch’s cabins instead.

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Tommie Ethington
Tommie Ethington is a Dallas-based freelance writer. Formerly an editor for Southwest Airlines' in-flight magazine, she continues to write about travel, design and interesting people for a variety of publications including Condé Nast Traveler, Rolling Stone and Texas Monthly. Find more of her work at tommieethington.com.