Weekend in Sacramento: State fair with California flair

Leave it to California to do things a little differently. Other states have state fairs, and yeah, California has one, too. But this state fair in Sacramento is also a mega food festival, mixing up high and low, greasy and gastronomic. It’s a place where you can size up prize cows, watch pig races, join a corn-dog eating contest, and sample the best up-and-coming wines in the state. And after a two-year hiatus (thanks to Covid), the fair is back between July 15 and 31.

Mike Dunne is someone who knows his way around this food-focused fair. The retired food editor, restaurant critic, and wine columnist for the Sacramento Bee continues to find his inspiration in local dishes and drinks. (Just check out his soon-to-be-published book about the history of greater Sacramento’s wine scene.)

Even when Dunne isn’t judging the wine competition at the fair, he knows it’s the place to be. When he goes with his wife, they head for the fair’s wine garden where they can sample the year’s award-winning wines. The fair also has three other culinary competitions for the best of the best in olive oil, cheese, and beer. Plus, as Dunne says, there are plenty of chances to join in on seminars and taste the award-winning entries.

But at the heart of it, fairs are all about classic, crowd-pleasing eats. And when it comes to those, there are plenty of standouts. Dunne is a fan of the fair’s corn dogs, and he gives this clue to fellow fans: “Several corn-dog vendors are on the grounds, but I favor one near the horse arena.” As a bonus, you’ll find craft beers on tap nearby. The fair’s most popular food, cinnamon rolls, are another can’t-miss.

You could easily spend the entire day roaming from one delicious thing to the next, but food is only part of the fun. “I can’t go to the State Fair without visiting the art exhibit,” says Dunne, calling it a perfect place to enjoy California’s “lively, varied, and highly regarded art community.” And who could come to a fair without getting some face time with prize-winning (and super adorable) farm animals? “We always tour the livestock barns,” he says. Dunne likes the long-horned cattle and the goats, while his wife “is partial to the llamas and alpacas.” Music is another big part of the fair, and Dunne always makes time to catch local-music-scene fave Mick Martin and the Blues Rockers show, which are set in a shady and quiet beer garden.

To do the fair right, says Dunne, you’re going to need to time your visit strategically and arrive prepared. “To beat the heat, plan to take in the fair either early in the day or in the evening, when temperatures are comparably cool,” he says. And along with bringing money and patience, he suggests, “put comfortable and sturdy shoes, sunblock and water at the top of your list.”

When you’re done at the fair, spend the rest of your Sacramento visit soaking up what makes the state capital so special. “Sacramento has a vibrant music and theater scene, and it has positioned itself in recent years as the state’s farm-to-fork capital,” he says. Meaning those amazing eats will only continue when you’re off fairgrounds.

How should you round-out your trip? What are the city's can't-miss sites? And where should you bunk in between trips to the fairground? Read on for our picks.

—Christine Sarkis, SoCal’s Senior WeekEnder Guide

Add to your state fair weekend with these faves.

Like the fair, the Old Sacramento Waterfront is a super-immersive place dedicated to one thing—fun. Raised wooden boardwalks take you by more than 50 historic buildings housing saloons and old-timey candy shops. A ferris wheel rises up from along the river, and the amazing California State Railroad Museum stretches along one side of the neighborhood. The cool thing about it is that it doesn’t feel like a dusty relic for tourists—evenings are packed with a mix of locals and visitors taking in the whole scene.

Ready for a nature reboot? The 32-mile American River Bike Trail connects Old Sacramento with the Sierra foothills city of Folsom to the east. Rent a bike or bring your own for a low-key ride along the river. It’s tree-lined, relaxing, and gives a great view of the water, where you can spot kayaks, tour boats, and other people paddling around. You’ll be sharing the path with walkers and joggers, some inline skaters, and even the occasional horse (and unless things went wrong, its rider). Bring a picnic because there are plenty of great shady spots to pull over along the riverbank.

The State Capitol building is part seat-of-government, part museum that walks you through Sacramento’s major role in California over the last 150 years. If you’re a history buff or a policy wonk, you don’t need more convincing. But if you read that first sentence and were like, yawn, read on, because wandering through the museum’s rooms is like stumbling onto a fascinating stash of artwork, artifacts, and period furniture worthy of any treasure-hunter. Plus the wall text keeps things interesting while throwing around terms like “Neo-classical design” and riffing on the importance of the 1849 Constitutional Convention.

There are two ways to Brew Bike: Either invite up to 15 of your closest friends and go the private-party route or just book individual seats on one of the open-air pedal-powered party buses. Either way, you get a captain who is going to steer you to some great bars, hook you up with drink discounts, and extend an open invitation to drink what you’ve purchased along the way as you pedal your way through Midtown’s hottest spots. If you do the private tour option, you can also customize your route and throw in some food, murals, or dessert stops into the mix.

Sure, sure, Sacramento is landlocked, but that doesn’t mean you won’t find mermaids here. And as it happens, their natural habitat is Sacramento’s Dive Bar. They’re not here for the cocktails—these are mermaids who’ve turned pro and star in the bar’s shows every night. Their stage? A 40-foot, 7,500 gallon saltwater tank they share with more than a dozen species of tropical fish. The creative bartenders will help you find your perfect mermaid drink to go along with the aquatic fun. And new for summer, there’s also a rotating menu of boozy slushies that deliver just the right level of brain freeze.

Find the flavors of farm country with an urban twist.

There’s a lot to like about Bacon & Butter, but one of our favorites is that the menu reads like a personality quiz. Are you a Kitchen Sink (lardon, crispy potatoes, spinach, mushrooms, caramelized onions, jack cheese, and eggs) or maybe a Bee Pollen (agave yogurt, granola, fruit, honey, bee pollen, and chia seeds)? Do you go in for avocado toast or a bacon melt, or maybe you’re a chicken-and-waffles person? No matter what you choose, it’s going to be fresh, local, and focused on humanely raised and farmed foods. And there’s no better way to start a big day out at the fair than with a breakfast that matches your vibe.

Just as fun as the state fair midway but way more chill, Flatstick Pub is all about local beers and minigolf. Or try out this thing called Duffleboard, which is the pub’s very own super-fun mash-up of golf and shuffleboard. The just-challenging-enough nine-hole mini-golf course is geared to adults (no windmills or clown mouths here, thankfully) and with a URL like Tipsyputt.com, you can see where this is going even before you pick up your first pint and putter. Its DOCO (Downtown Commons) location puts it in the heart of the action, and there’s food too, so you won’t have to leave a winning streak when hunger hits.

The novelty factor is through the roof at Squeeze Burger, home of the cheese skirt. Yes, you didn’t know it, but your burger has needed the ultimate accessory this entire time: a halo of crispy, lacy cheddar that’s like a delicious hoop skirt for your burger. Guy Fieri, Bam Adebayo, and Jay Leno are among the fans of this burger joint’s amazing approach to the cheeseburger. And vegetarians can get in on the action by adding a cheese skirt to a veggie burger.

Sacramento has no shortage of great Mexican food, but Cantina Alley’s winning combo of magical hidden-garden setting, really good drinks, and satisfying eats make it a don’t-miss spot, especially on a warm night. Street tacos, tortas, and elote are on offer alongside a signature margarita or boozy mangoneada slush. Kick back at a table set among plants and murals, art and flags, and lit by festive string lights. And no matter where you sit, be sure to make a trip to the bar to admire its handmade tiles by local artist ​​Ruben Briseño Reveles.

The Parlor does breathtaking things with ice cream that aren’t just Instagrammable but actually delicious. First, the flavors: You’ll find a mix of old and new classics—think vanilla but also sea salt, earl gray, matcha, and taro. Then comes the next step: Put the ice cream in the middle of a hot donut for an effect that’s like a dessert hot pocket. You can also opt for a milkshake, a churro-and-ice-cream combo, or, and we’re switching to all caps for a reason here, THE WORKS, a triple-scoop milkshake topped with a nutella-filled donut and then crowned with whipped cream and all the toppings you can handle.

Sleep in a historic mansion or under the shadow of a Johnny Cash mural.

Picture this: It’s been a fun but long day of sunshine, pig races, and elote fries, but now you’re in serious need of down time. You arrive back at the Kimpton Sawyer and walk straight into its evening wine hour, and then head to the blissful rooftop pool that feels like your own little oasis complete with lush trees and plants. After a cool-down float, you haul yourself out of the pool and head to the rooftop bar and sun yourself dry with a drink in hand. Back at the room, it’s all about indulging in all the boutique-hotel touches like the dreamy-soft robes, Frette linens, and Chromecast streaming, because your favorite show isn’t going to watch itself.

Staying at the Residence Inn gives you instant street cred because you get to say, “I’m staying at the place with the giant Johnny Cash mural.” The 15-story Shepard Fairey artwork is just one of hundreds of murals in Sacramento, but with its gorgeous reds and oranges, it really shines—and makes it super easy to find your way back to this downtown hotel. The all-suite hotel has big rooms with fully equipped kitchens and living rooms, and also has both a pool and a spa. Plus, bonus, there’s a complimentary hot breakfast buffet every day, so you can fuel up before heading to the fair.

If you’re looking to dive into Sacramento’s bar and restaurant scene post-fair, Midtown is a fun place to camp out. And the Fort Sutter Hotel Sacramento, which is part of Hilton’s Tapestry Collection, is plonked down right in the middle of the action. Interiors are airy and modern, with lots of light. There’s a mix of rooms and suites, all of which offer big bathrooms, comfortable beds, and free Wi-Fi. And Hilton Honors members can sometimes find discounts to sweeten the deal even more.

The Inn at Parkside is a bed-and-breakfast that leans more elegant than rustic. It blends vintage-chic and modern-sleek thanks to its location in a historic mansion (the main house) and a villa next door. The vibe is serene, helped along by details like ultra-luxe beds, super-comfy robes and slippers, Jacuzzis and fireplaces, and beautifully landscaped grounds where you’re free to wander. If you’re feeling maxed out after a full day of fair fun, these spaces are the perfect antidote.

It’s not fancy, but the Courtyard by Marriott Cal Expo definitely delivers a comfy and clean spot to kick back super close to the state fair. It’s a good practical option with all the amenities you’d expect from a Marriott, stuff like free Wi-Fi and rewards points for stays. There’s also a Starbucks on-site to head off any caffeine withdrawal. Bonus: There’s a pool, and nothing feels better after a day at the fair than a cool splashdown.

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