Exploring the Riviera Maya on an adventure-packed road trip

If you’ve been to the Riviera Maya in Mexico, you’ve likely traveled down Highway 307 (it’s really the only way to get from the Cancun airport to your hotel). I’ve probably driven it over 1,000 times, and every time I do, I discover something new—a grand hotel, an adventure park, a freshly paved turn-off to a cenote.

I recently drove it again on a four-day road trip down the coastline. Along the way, I took careful notes of all my favorite places off the highway, plus lesser-known pit stops to share with friends (because almost everyone I know has the Riviera Maya on their bucket list). Here’s a rundown of all my finds, from Cancun to Bacalar and everywhere in between.

42 miles; 1 hour and 15 minutes

The first leg of my road trip is Cancun to Playa del Carmen. Playa used to be a tiny, quiet fishing village, but today it’s all modern, with great shopping, a serious dining scene, and beaches that are laid-back by day and wild at night (maybe you’ve heard the stories—and most are true).

A warning: It’s hard to escape the crowds (and the high prices) on the town’s main drag, La Quinta, but there are a few hidden gems like Corazón de Mexico, where you can find high-quality works by Mexican artists. La Troupe is another one of my favorite spots for accessories and housewares by Argentinian designers and Mayan craftswomen.

For dinner, it’s all about the fresh fish tacos at Los Aguachiles. (There are two locations in town, one on Avenida Costituyentes, which is closer to the beach, and one on Calle 34 Norte). But if you want something fancier, try the Portuguese food at Belmonte. Heads up: it gets packed around 9 p.m., so get there on the early side or make a reservation ahead of time.

There are tons of hotels in Playa but I like the Grand Hyatt Playa del Carmen. It’s bordered by a pretty walkway that runs from town all the way to the beach and all the rooms have balconies, which is pretty rare (make sure to request one with a water view).

31 miles; 45 minutes

Before getting back on the road, I hit a kick-a*s breakfast spot: Cueva del Chango. They have the most delicious licuados (smoothies), but the omelets and local fruit with house-made granola are great, too. Plus, the dining room is super cool, with a cave-like domed ceiling and tons of plants.

You can’t come to the Riviera Maya and skip the cenotes. I start at Dos Ojos Cenote—a pair of connected underwater caves located right off Highway 307 and run by a Mayan community. My advice: sign up for a guided snorkeling tour; my guide pointed out freshwater fish, crazy rock formations, and even some nesting swallows that I probably would’ve missed on my own. Next, I pop into the smaller Nicte Ha cenote. It’s worth the four-minute drive down a dirt road because it’s less crowded and it’s got a rocky cliff you can jump off into the water if you’re looking for some thrills (I wasn’t brave enough).

I double back to Akumal (10 miles away) to grab lunch at La Buena Vida, a waterfront restaurant I’ve been visiting since I was a kid. Get the limey shrimp ceviche and sit at one of the casual tables under the palapas—in my opinion, they’re some of the best seats along the coast.

15 miles; 30 minutes

It’s a quick drive from La Buena Vida to Tulum (a city I think of in two parts: the beach and the town, separated by two miles of thick jungle). The area has become very trendy, so don’t expect quiet streets and beaches. There is some cool stuff in town—local fruit and vegetable markets, affordable souvenir stores, surprisingly good street art—but the beach side has the best shops and restaurants. Most stores stay open late, so make a point to get to Wanderlust and stock up on linen beach dresses, crocheted cover-ups, and necklaces made with vintage Mexican coins.

Before dinner, I go for a mezcal at Gitano (I’m a sucker for the tables on the beach, under the strings of twinkly lights). The highlight of the night, however, is dinner at Kitchen Table. Don’t miss the smoky grilled cabbage, the crispy pork belly, and the sopes, a kind of maize flatbread topped with huitlacoche mushrooms (a local specialty). Book in advance.

Tulum is dotted with so many eco-friendly resorts it’s hard to know where to stay, but I’m partial to Maya Tulum. It’s got a free daily yoga class and spacious rooms with large screened windows to keep the bugs out. Make sure to book an oceanfront room—it’s pricer but the views are worth it.

6 miles; 20 minutes

From the hotel, it’s a short drive to Sian Ka’an, a 780,000-acre ecological reserve and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The preserve has Mayan roots (Sian Ka’an means “origin of the sky”) and guides lead eco-friendly boat tours through the lagoons and natural canals. A tip: Go as early as possible because it gets hot and bring a bottle of water.

I can’t say enough good things about the birdwatching tour with a local guide named Eddy. (When in Sian Ka’an, always book tours led by Mayans—they know the region best and it’s a great way to support the community.) I’m blown away by the wildlife we see: crocodiles, manatees, and dozens of bird species. We also pop into a 1,200-year-old Mayan house and float down canals through the mangroves—so relaxing.

Sian Ka’an is in a very remote area, so there aren’t really restaurants nearby. If you get hungry during the day, there are street-side stalls that sell fruit and other small snacks, otherwise pack a lunch or wait to eat until you get back to your hotel.

75 miles; 2 hours

Before leaving Tulum, I eat at El Tabano!, a colorful, casual restaurant with cute mismatched tables. The coffee is strong, the fresh-fruit smoothies are delicious, and the classic Mexican dishes like huevos rancheros are on point.

It’s two hours on well-marked roads to Chacchobén, a collection of Mayan ruins that date back to 200 B.C.E. Unlike at crowded Chichen Itza, the Yucatan’s most popular ruin, I only see a handful of other tourists here. You can wander solo among the temples, but it’s worth hiring an English-speaking guide (available for hire at the ticket office) for more history and context. My guide also pointed out jungle wildlife like parrots and long-tailed spider monkeys high up in the gum and pepper trees.

17 miles; 30 minutes

It’s a short trip to my final stop, Laguna de Bacalar, a narrow, 26-mile-long lake surrounded by protected mangroves and eco resorts. (It’s a hotspot for in-the-know Mexicans, who have houses right on the water.) I start in the waterfront town of Bacalar and tour the Fuerte de San Felipe, built by the Spanish in 1733 to protect the surrounding region from pirates. It’s fun to look out at the water from the terraced walls, but also check out the cool little museum that covers the area’s Mayan roots and colonial conquests.

Rancho Encantado is my favorite resort in Bacalar for three reasons: the bright whitewashed rooms, the pier with overwater hammocks, and the complimentary activities like stand-up paddle boarding and kayaking. I pop into the on-site restaurant, which overlooks the lake, for a late lunch of baked lobster tail before checking in.

200 miles; 4 hours and 10 minutes

The next morning, it’s breakfast at El Manatí, a restaurant, gallery, and shop in one. After a salad with chopped jicama, pineapple, sesame seeds, and chaya (so good!), I overspend on rainbow-striped beach blankets, a colorful hammock, and a couple huipiles (traditional embroidered shirts), then hit the road for the long drive back to Cancun.