3 perfect days in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is my favorite city in Thailand, bar none. I love exploring the buzzy restaurants and shops along Nimmanhaeminda Road, then ducking down a winding side street for some peace and quiet. The weather is fantastic, especially in the cool season between December and February. And the locals are incredibly laid-back—except during Songkran, the Thai New Year celebration, when they are busy dousing each other with water. (They take these water fights very seriously.)

This three-day itinerary takes you to both the main highlights and some hidden gems and is designed to help you navigate the city as easily as possible. And to help you make the most of your time, we’ve incorporated Tripadvisor reviews and ratings. That way, you can be sure to visit the places that other travelers have loved, too.

There’s no better way to get acquainted with Chiang Mai than by navigating the streets of the historic Old Town, a very walkable (or bikeable) half square mile. At the very heart of the area is the famous Three Kings Monument, commemorating the architects of the Lanna Dynasty (1664-1774). For even more about the history of Chiang Mai, check out the Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Centre, located behind the monument.

Even better, get in touch with history by visiting the ancient Chiang Mai Gate, where the crumbling brick walls once protected the city from foreign invaders. Then stop by a temple. This city has more than 300 of them, and the oldest is called Wat Chiang Man—it dates back to 1296.

All that walking means you’ve definitely earned your lunch break, so head to the local institution called Khaosoi Lamduan Faham. The specialty of the house is khao soi, the curried noodle soup that’s the most popular dish in Northern Thailand. (The restaurant claims to have invented khao soi, and I’m not going to argue that point.) The broth here is lighter than at many of its rivals, with just a flick of coconut milk added right before it reaches your table. There are many options here, including those that will satisfy vegetarians.

After lunch, take a ride on a songthaew (the open-ended red buses you’ll find all over the city) to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. The city’s most famous temple complex is set high on a mountain overlooking Chiang Mai. Besides its panoramic views over the valley below, Doi Suthep has a battery of bells that you can ring for good luck. Ride the funicular up to the top of the temple and walk down the famous staircase, which has Chinese-style dragons on both sides. At the bottom, you’ll find souvenir stands and snack stalls waiting for you.

If it’s Saturday, you’ll want to explore the night market on Walking Street, where more than 100 vendors set up shop. The best things to pick up here are fishermen’s pants, handmade bags, and artisanal soaps. Afterwards, stop for a bite and well-earned mug of beer at the nearby Faces Gallery and Gastro Bar, where the air-conditioned dining room looks out onto a gorgeous garden.

If it’s any other day of the week, head to one of the many restaurants that line the Ping River. I love the aptly-named Riverside Bar and Restaurant, a favorite since 1984. One of the don’t-miss dishes is tom yam khong (fish soup with shrimp). You can even reserve an evening boat ride and enjoy your meal while floating past some of the city’s main sights.

A little less than two hours from the center of Chiang Mai, Doi Inthanon National Park is Thailand’s most popular nature preserve. Mountain trails lead past flower-filled gardens, refreshing waterfalls, and indigenous villages. If you’re motivated enough to get here by sunrise, a stunning, rose-hued panorama awaits. If you’re here during the cool season (December to February), bring a jacket.

If you aren’t up for a picnic in the national park, you can enjoy traditional dishes at the nearby Mae Chaem Gate Restaurant, where a thatched roof covers the open-air dining room. The choicest tables are scattered around the slightly overgrown garden.

At the Doi Inthanon Elephant Sanctuary, local Karen tribe members run an ethical haven where you can feed and bathe obliging pachyderms. You can also accompany them into the forest, an appealing activity for any animal lover.

Back in Chiang Mai, Nimmanhaeminda Road is where the city’s hipsters converge, thronging its cafes, boutiques, and spas. Don't miss the hands-on pampering at Nimman House, where you can opt for a Thai-style tune-up that lasts as long as four hours.

One of Chiang Mai’s (and Thailand’s) foremost food pioneers is Chef Phanuphol “Black” Bulsuwan, who leads the team at the award-winning Blackitch Artisan Kitchen. There’s no need to order here, as the set menu—a melange of Asian influences—is where it’s at. Make sure to try the house-made beer and sake. Reserve a table well in advance.

A three-hour drive north of Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai served as the Lanna Kingdom’s first capital before King Mengrai moved his royal entourage farther from the border to avoid raids by Genghis Khan’s descendants.

Although it's got a reputation as a sleepy little town, Chiang Rai has plenty to see that’s worth your while. Don’t miss the famous White Temple (also known as Wat Rong Khun), built almost from scratch by local artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. The temple’s main building, accessible via a bridge depicting the “cycle of rebirth,” glitters with mirrored glass. Tripadvisor readers give it high marks.

Afterward, it only makes sense to visit the Black House (or Baan Dum). Built by hometown hero Tawan Dachanee, the “museum” is actually a series of buildings (including a small house shaped like a whale), designed and decorated with the artist’s own unique style (think antlers and lots of animal skins).

One of Chiang Rai’s claims to fame is its tea plantations. Among the most popular is Singha Park, where you can drive golf carts around the grounds and visit a petting zoo. Nearby Boon Rawd Farm is more focused on the farming side of things, but still has stunning views of the greenery.

Although there’s a restaurant at Singha Park, you might prefer the riverside setting of Chivit Tammada, a Thai-European restaurant set in an old mansion. If the temperatures are mild, opt for an outdoor table on the sprawling lawn next to the river. The Burmese-style gang hang lay (pork belly stew) is one of the best dishes here.

Among the more attractive communities near Chiang Mai is Mae Rim, about 40 minutes north of the city center. Locals and expats mingle at Terra and the Farmer’s Bar, which blends Northern Thai and Mediterranean cuisine. Enjoy a drink at the bar—which was brought over piece by piece from England—or browse in the little shop.