Where to eat, stay, and play in the US Virgin Islands
Did somebody say luxury charter catamaran?


The U.S. Virgin Islands—St. John, St. Thomas, and St. Croix—have had it rough in recent memory: It’s been a little over five years since the back-to-back Category 5 hurricanes Irma and Maria walloped the archipelago, and just as the territory was beginning to recover, the pandemic brought tourism, and especially cruising, to a screeching halt. Now, as the islands once again open their doors to visitors, first-timers and loyal returnees will find a slew of new offerings, from hotels and restaurants to charter catamarans and wellness shops, here’s where you can get on the islands’ uniquely laid-back wavelength.
Where to eat

Chef David “Benji” Benjamin jolted St. Thomas palates awake with the 2019 opening of Blue 11, a spot in Yacht Haven Grande that features a tasting menu of clever Caribbean-tinged dishes, like jerked chicken with plantain gnocchi. Amid the pandemic, Benji added a sophisticated sister spot, Indigo 4, just a few doors down in the same marina. There, you’ll find steakhouse fare with subtle island touches; the filet mignon, for instance, is served alongside a horseradish and green banana mash, while the key lime pie is bolstered with coconut and tamarind.
In November 2022, St. Croix welcomed a splashy contemporary Mexican restaurant, El Leon, on the boardwalk at Christiansted’s King Christian Hotel. The space evokes Tulum-style breeziness with its potted cacti, woven light fixtures, and colorful tiger-and-floral-print seats, while chef Liliana Ojeda Martz has whipped up a menu of fresh plates that fit the vibe: Think scallop tiradito with octopus chicharrones, Acapulco-style ceviche, and Corona-battered Baja fish tacos.
Other recent openings on St. John include Upstairs Bar & Grille in Cruz Bay for cold beer, totchos, and live music; a new coffee counter at St. John Scoops for rotating specialty drinks like taro frappés and lavender pumpkin pie lattes; and Coral Bay Fresh Market, for fresh produce and grab-and-go meals.
Where to drink

In January 2022, St. John Brewers opened an outpost in St. Thomas called St. John Brewers on the Waterfront, and the new location brings a sense of fun-loving, feet-in-the-sand energy to a historic building in downtown Charlotte Amalie. The tap room is pouring its usual lineup of brews, including Toasted Coconut Brown Ale and Mango Shandy, but if you’re not a beer person, give their new line of Love City Hard Seltzers—with flavors like hibiscus pomegranate and passion fruit—a try.
What to do

The best place to see and be seen in the islands these days is aboard Voodoo, a luxury charter catamaran that first set sail in 2021 and offers both group tours and private excursions. A popular itinerary pairs snorkeling with a stop at Lime Out, a floating taco stand with inflatable seating and a swim-up bar, while shorter evening cruises include an open bar and charcuterie board to pair with the unbeatable Caribbean sunsets.
While not new, it’s worth noting that kayaking tours are also abundant in these parts. Try the top-rated Cas Cay-Kayak Hike and Snorkel Adventure from Virgin Islands Ecotours or Night Kayak Tour in St. John-Westin Resort by outfitter Night Kayak.
For a completely different view of St. Croix, the recently opened Carambola Zip Line park offers three scenic runs, which dart across a rainforest valley that once housed an 18th-century Danish sugar plantation. After starting nice and easy with the 515-foot Mongoose, you’ll tackle the Gauntlet, which is more than a half-mile long and hangs 200-plus feet above the valley floor. The third and final line allows you to zip along at 40 mph before finishing at the photogenic ruins of an old sugar mill.
Where to shop

It’s no coincidence that the new St. John wellness and apothecary shop Golden Hour shares a name with a Grammy-winning album by Kacey Musgraves: We’re sure the country star would love the easy, breezy vibe here. Located in the island’s stone-and-mahogany Mongoose Junction shopping center, the new boutique sells Osea skincare products infused with hand-harvested seaweed, make-your-own-matcha kits, Nopalera cactus soap, and dainty gold jewelry inspired by local sea fans, seahorses, and starfishes.
Where to stay

Lovango Resort & Beach Club made an unsurprisingly enormous splash when it debuted recently on a semi-private island 10 minutes by ferry from St. John and St. Thomas: After all it’s the first new-build resort in the U.S. Virgin Islands in 30 years. Part of Little Gem Resorts, which includes Travelers’ Choice Best of the Best–winning properties in Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket, the island comprises a three-bedroom villa and a smattering of treehouses and glamping tents, complete with gorgeous outdoor showers that melt into the lush surroundings. Lovango—which can also be accessed by day visitors—also has a strip of lovely shops, with menswear, home goods, and kids’ shops joining in 2023.
If you’re more of the roughing-it type, check out the revitalized Cinnamon Bay Campgrounds, located on St. John’s north shore in U.S. Virgins Island National Park. After being destroyed by Hurricane Irma, the campground made its much-anticipated return last January, and the accommodations now include eco-tents and cottages. While not quite glamping, the comfortable tents include queen beds (plus bunks in the family configuration), cooking kits, and, best of all, electricity. Cottages add on such perks as a mini-fridge, a grill, and a trundle bed for kids. Of course, most of your time will be spent outside, hiking, birdwatching, or kayaking in the bathtub-calm Cinnamon Bay.
In the works for spring 2023 is the reimagined Frenchman’s Reef resort complex, which is opening on the site of a Marriott that shuttered in 2017. Set atop a rocky peninsula on St. Thomas, the $425 million redevelopment comprises two resorts: the 392-room Westin Resort & Spa and the 94-room Morningstar Buoy Haus Beach Resort, an Autograph Collection Hotel, which will be connected by a white-sand beach. Between the two, guests will have access to ocean-view pools, a spa, plenty of dining options, and the private sailing catamaran, The Flying Frenchman, which will host champagne brunches, sunset sails, and jaunts to secret snorkeling spots.