6 great reasons to visit Dublin in the winter

The winter chill in Ireland chases some visitors away, but if a cozy pub, live music by a fire, snug bookstores, and fun winter festivals sound like your kind of trip, the chilly season is an ideal time to book a flight to Dublin.

The city is where my husband grew up and is like my second home now. And no matter how many times I visit in the winter, I’m struck by the same things: the city’s energy, the warmth of its people, and a distinct soulfulness that feels like a cozy hug despite even the most frost-bitten temperatures.

So check out my picks for the ultimate winter escape in Dublin, just don't forget to pack a warm hat and heavy coat.

You’ll find traditional Irish music sessions at pubs throughout the year, but there’s something special about musicians gathering together on the coldest nights. After the international tourists of summer have gone home, these sessions are once again by, and for, locals. More community gathering than performance, winter sessions offer a glimpse into a rich music culture.

One of my favorite places to order a pint of Guinness and settle in for some music is the Cobblestone, a traditional pub on the north side of the River Liffey—think, low stools, walls lined with photographs, and an unfussy atmosphere where all are welcome. On the south side, the front space at O’Donohue’s hosts musicians most evenings. One of the oldest pubs in Dublin, the Brazen Head, also hosts a regular session. Music lovers may want to plan a trip to coincide with TradFest, an annual festival of traditional Irish music held every January at venues across the city.

Tip: A pint of plain (Guinness) or a whiskey are common accompaniments to a music session. Want to learn more about local whiskey? Sign up for a tour at Dublin’s Teeling Distillery to learn about how the spirit is made and taste several varieties.

There’s no place on the planet I’d rather be in December than Dublin, where locals bring the concept of “festive” to new heights. Yes, there are holiday lights and decorations on every corner. Sure, the holiday music in pubs and steady buzz of friends gathering fills the city. But it’s more than that. Dubliners harness the excuse of the holidays to celebrate, connect, and indulge. They get dressed up, they order one more drink, they make the time to stroll under the Christmas lights strung along Grafton Street. Even the Guinness Storehouse is decked out for the occasion.

Visitors can join in on the shopping, dining, and drinking—and also at annual events. There are free concerts with carol singers at St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Christ Church (the city’s two medieval cathedrals worth visiting for their architecture alone).The National Concert Hall offers ticketed, festive events such as a Candlelit Carols evening.

Tip: Shop for unique gifts and warm up with mulled wine at outdoor Christmas markets at Dublin Castle and the National Botanic Gardens.

There are few better ways to spend a bright winter’s day in Dublin than with a scenic train ride followed by a seafood lunch. The DART is Dublin’s convenient train line that runs through the city center and out along the coast, both north and south. If the sun is shining, my move is often to grab the train north, to the seaside village of Howth. Choose a seat on the sea-facing side of the train and admire views of the coast during the journey.

After you arrive, a stroll out along the West Pier with views of the Howth Lighthouse is a must; keep an eye on the water for playful seals below. It may be no surprise that in this location, surrounded by the sea, that restaurants here focus on serving the freshest seafood. For a classic and informal experience, relax over lunch at King Sitric Seafood Bar (don’t miss the crab claws) or for an upscale, polished lunch, settle into Aqua Restaurant for oysters with a sea view.

Tip: If the weather is good, hike along the coastline on the Howth Cliff Walk, a five-mile trail along Howth Head that offers sweeping coastline views.

The literary tradition in Dublin is alive and well, and there’s no better time to plan a cozy crawl of Dublin’s bookshops than when there’s a chill in the air. I always begin at Books Upstairs, a legendary Dublin bookshop with a café upstairs. A seat by the window, hot coffee, and cracking the spine of a new book adds up to my idea of a perfect afternoon. Other bookstores worth a browse include Hodges Figgis, the Gutter Bookshop, or Chapters.

Complete the literature immersion with a visit to the National Library of Ireland (don’t miss the exhibit on the life and work of W.B. Yeats) and MoLI (Museum of Literature Ireland), home to the first copy of James Joyce’s Ulysses. In addition to exhibitions, MoLI also offers a shop stocked with items for book lovers and a charming café with coffee, homemade cakes, all-day breakfast, and wine.

Tip: Book lovers won’t want to miss Dublin’s crown literary jewel: the stunning Long Room Library at Trinity College. This vaulted chamber dating back to the 1730s is often cited as one of the world’s great libraries and is over 200 feet in length and home to over 200,000 of the library’s oldest books.

Dublin’s dark winter nights are ideal for hunkering down in one of the city’s theaters to catch some of the seasons’ best productions. Your first stop should be the Abbey Theatre, the national theater of Ireland. For more than 100 years, theater fans have gathered within the dark wood walls and deep, red velvet seats to watch productions often written by and starring Irish playwrights and actors. Looking to learn more about the stage’s history? Theater tours and special events like lectures and storytelling competitions also fill the Abbey’s calendar.

Theater buffs may also want to check out the calendars at the Gate Theatre, the Smock Alley Theatre, and the Gaiety Theatre. My favorite part about the Dublin theater scene? It is affordable and accessible—with tickets often found for as low as 20 euros.

Tip: Mooney’s Bar, located near the Abbey Theatre on Abbey Street, is a traditional pub that’s a perfect place to unwind after the show.

One annual event is guaranteed to pack the pubs during the winter months: the Six Nations Rugby tournament. This tournament, held between January and March between Ireland and five other European nations, isn’t just a sporting event, but a cultural milestone of the year. You don’t need to know anything about rugby, or honestly even like sports, to get swept up in the atmosphere that electrifies just about every pub in Dublin. Home games are played at the Aviva Stadium in Dublin, which holds about 50,000 people, but the revelry can be felt everywhere in the city.

Tip: Can’t get enough of Irish sports? Take a stadium tour of Croke Park, the home of Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) museum, and the setting for Irish football, hurling, as well as soccer and rugby.