7 tips for visiting Florence with kids

It’s no secret that Florence doesn’t have to work too hard to impress travelers–this is Italy, after all. That said, “the birthplace of the Renaissance” and “quaint city center” aren’t exactly phrases that get the kids out of a jetlagged crank-a-thon. Keep in mind, too, that Florence is compact and requires a lot of walking, which can be tough with little ones.

Still, it's an incredible city for families, and I highly recommend you bring your brood because Italy loves kids in a way other European countries don’t. Here’s a cheat sheet from my many family trips to Florence–no surprise, it starts with gelato.

There’s no shortage of gelato shops in Florence. (Seriously, there’s a shop on almost every corner, so when you need to bribe your kids with some sweet treats to keep them calm, you’re set.) Located near the Santa Maria Novella train station, My Sugar is one of my favorites. It’s the stuff of childhood dreams, with generous scoops of housemade gelato in flavors ranging from strawberry and stracciatella (chocolate chip) to Sicilian lemon and black sesame. But a warning: It’s a small storefront with no seating, so you’ll need to park it on a bench to eat and rest your legs.

If the trek to My Sugar is too far from where you are, I’ve got alternatives. There’s La Sorbettiera, with 16 inventive gelato flavors (they also have a way with sorbet), and Sbrino Gelatificio Contadino, which also has organic varieties (don’t miss the fior di capra, made from tangy goat’s milk). Both are near Piazza Santo Spirito.

When you’re in the mood for something other than gelato, go to Caffè Gilli, one of Florence’s oldest and fanciest pastry shops, for coffee (for you) and dessert (for you and the kids). After some espresso and decadent tiramisu at a table overlooking Piazza della Repubblica, you’ll be ready for your next round of sightseeing. Just keep in mind, this spot is in the heart of the city and super popular, so I wouldn’t say it’s the most affordable.

The grande dame of Florence art museums, the Uffizi is definitely doable with kids (check out tips here), but it’s big, and strict when it comes to noise and running around. For something equally fascinating but much more hands on, try the Leonardo Interactive Museum, where little ones can take an experiential tour of da Vinci’s artistic and scientific discoveries, reconstruct some of his most famous inventions, and even take a photo with their own face on the Mona Lisa. A bonus: you can be in and out within an hour.

Don't skip the recently refurbished La Specola, a nearly 250-year-old branch of the University of Florence Natural History Museums. There’s a hall of skeletons (skip this room with little ones), hundreds of rare butterflies and beetles, and a vast number of taxidermied critters. It’s popular, so reserve your tickets ahead of time to avoid waiting in long entry lines.

Whenever I’m traveling with my family, I make sure to leave time for the outdoors. Florence isn’t exactly known for its parks, but the Boboli Gardens are an exception. Plan a whole afternoon around it: Pick up some picnic staples at Alimentari Uffizi and bring a blanket, then find some shade and settle in (tickets are required for entry). Make sure to bring water. There’s one restaurant here and it gets crowded, and the hilly landscape can be tricky to navigate with a stroller.

When your kid has had it up to here with history and art, give them a break with some toy time. The massive Dreoni Giocattoli toy store has been around for a century and is packed to the gills with playthings, from stuffed animals and puzzles to scooters and Renaissance costumes. Just make sure to get there on the early side, or go before dinner (it’s open until 7 p.m.).

If you’re looking for a family-friendly hotel in Florence, you’ve got options. The farther out you go from downtown, the more space you’ll get. And don’t worry about being far away from everything—the city is relatively small, so pretty much all the major sites are within walking distance no matter where you stay.

A few favorites: Hotel Regency for its outdoor garden, where the kids can run around at the end of the day; Plaza Hotel Lucches, with a rooftop pool (which is a rarity for Florence and an automatic winner with kids); and Hotel Croce Di Malta, with connecting rooms and also a decent-sized pool.

You’ll no doubt spend a ton of time eating your way through Florence, but another way to learn about Italian food is to sign up for a cooking class. Some hotels offer great classes, so check what’s available where you’re staying. If it’s a no go, try this three-hour gelato- and pasta-making course, taught in the kitchen of an Italian chef. You get to taste your creations at the end of the course and bring home a collection of homemade recipes. Bonus: if you’ve got a baby in tow, they’re welcome to sit in your lap while you hone your skills.

Florence’s many churches are free to enter, meaning it won’t matter if your kid has a meltdown five minutes into your visit and you need to leave quickly. They also offer a way to experience some culture without having to wait in line and, unless you walk in on a mass, a little movement and noise is usually OK. Some recs: the gothic Santa Maria Novella, which has a massive crucifix by Giotto and medieval- and Renaissance-era frescos; the Basilica di Santo Spirito, where even little ones will love the ornate interiors; and Santa Croce. I also recommend the iconic Duomo of Santa Maria del Fiore with 463 steps to climb to reach the top. Older kids will love it, but it’s too much with little ones. The lines can also be insane, so buy the Brunelleschi Pass ahead of time (either at the ticket office or online)—it includes access to the bell tower, the baptistry, and the ancient basilica Santa Reparata at any point within 72 hours of buying the pass, plus an appointment time for climbing the Duomo.