Head to North Lake Tahoe for out-of-a-postcard nature and world-class snow sports
Nature rules in North Tahoe, the stretch of mountain, forest, and lake that includes Truckee, the towns of Tahoe’s northern shore, and parts of the chill West Shore. And whether you’re shredding at a local ski resort, blissing out on a snowshoe trek through the woods, or grabbing a bite to eat, you’re never far from that piney, snowy, wild Tahoe magic.
Most people feel that magic and snap a million pictures. But Matt Peyto, brewer and owner of Truckee’s Good Wolf, turned his love of North Tahoe’s nature into something far more delicious: beer. “We wanted to capture the forest in a glass,” he says. The brewery’s collection of forest beers leans on foraged ingredients to recreate the “sensory experience of a hike through the Tahoe National Forest.” Think juniper-smoked campfire ales and IPAs with notes of pine.
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Like most people who call North Tahoe home, Peyto loves to spend time in nature. Cold months mean “snowshoeing and sliding down a steep mountain with a board strapped to my feet,” followed up with a pint at a cozy pub with friends. As spring morphs into summer, Peyto heads up into the mountains to hike to some of the area’s hidden alpine lakes and trails. “There is nothing quite like having a beer and reading a book next to a lake and knowing there is no one else around for miles. There is no quiet like it.”
Ready to savor North Lake Tahoe? Here’s what to do and eat, and where to stay.
—Christine Sarkis, SoCal’s Senior WeekEnder Guide
Editor’s Note: Stay up to date on weather alerts and flood warnings.
Things to do
Ski, snowboard, or spend time off the slopes in North Tahoe.
For downhill fun with amazing views, Homewood Mountain Resort
Homewood Mountain Resort isn’t Tahoe’s biggest or fanciest resort, but its slopes get top marks for some of the best lake views. On clear days, the reflection of the mountains bounces off the lake, and it’s a stunner. Big Blue, the resort’s mid-mountain bar, is the perfect place to warm up, kick back, and soak in that Tahoe panorama. Heads up that Homewood is planning to go private in a few years, so if you’ve been meaning to check out this spot, the time is now.
For a sunset snowshoe tour, Tahoe Adventure Tours
Trade downhill thrills for snowshoe chill on a sunset tour with Tahoe Adventure Tours. These easy two- to three-mile snowshoe treks happen in spots around North Tahoe, and they give you the chance to explore the snowy forest, learning about history (the natural and the human kind) on the way. Everything from the snowshoes and trekking poles to the hot drinks and trail snacks is provided—all you have to do is show up ready to soak up Tahoe’s off-the-beaten-path winter beauty.
To ditch the crowds, Alpenglow backcountry ski tour
Thanks to record-breaking snowpack, 2023 has had slopes full of skiers and snowboarders. And that’s great, but also, it makes for long lift lines and crowded runs. Enter Alpenglow’s backcountry ski tour, which gives you access to some of Tahoe’s most incredible terrain for advanced intermediate skiers and boarders. And by using the lift system at Palisades instead of hiking up each time, you’ll get easier access to the backcountry terrain. Their expert guides can also help you hone backcountry skills, too, including avalanche safety.
To test your luck, the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe casino
The California-Nevada border cuts right through Lake Tahoe’s north shore at Crystal Bay. That’s both a fun geography fact and a long way of saying that you can gamble on the Nevada side of that line. For a relaxed, just-swanky-enough casino scene, head to the Hyatt Regency’s Grand Lodge Casino, which has table games like Blackjack, Craps, and Roulette, plus a full-service sports book and hundreds of slot and video poker machines.
For nerding out on science, UC Davis Tahoe Environmental Research Center
At this research center in Incline Village, you can dig into the science behind Lake Tahoe, aka North America’s largest alpine lake. Interactive virtual exhibits let you explore under the lake’s surface without getting wet. There are also occasional evening lectures on everything from managing water in California to the science of attraction. And bonus—the LEED Platinum building offers plenty of eco-friendly design inspo.
Where to eat and drink
Playing in the snow really works up an appetite. Here’s where to refuel.
For nature-inspired brews, The Good Wolf
Inside, The Good Wolf feels like a friend’s cozy living room—think tangles of house plants, comfy couches, soft throws, warm lighting, book stacks, and little framed paintings. But honestly, the real reason people are here is the beer. The main menu features a rotating list of cool options like Boca Gold, the revival of a 150-year-old California lager recipe; and then there are the forest beers, which give you the chance to taste Tahoe with notes of juniper, pine, and berry. If you’re short on time, check out the fridges with to-go options including canned brewery faves, snacks, and some non-alcoholic options.
For diner decor and upgraded classics, Jax at the Tracks
Cozy up in a booth or grab a spot at the counter in this classic diner, Jax at the Tracks. Transported to Truckee in the 1990s, this venue still has plenty of vinyl and chrome in a nod to its glory days. But don’t let the looks fool you—the food here is several notches above your usual laminated-menu spot. You’ll find favorites like crab-cake eggs benedict (on a house-made English muffin) and cinnamon french toast for breakfast, plus patty melts, pot pie, and chopped salads for lunch and dinner. No wonder this all-day spot was once featured on the show Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives.
For a cozy + luxe dinner, Manzanita
The genius of the Ritz-Carlton’s Manzanita is taking luxury dining but giving it a cabin-in-the-woods feel. The dining room’s big windows frame the snowy woods, and inside it’s all roaring fires and stone walls hung with nature-inspired art. It’s a romantic spot for sure, and the food spotlights seasonal fare like Santa Barbara spot prawns and foraged mushrooms. Reservations are a good idea at this Truckee spot, especially this season with the promise of spring skiing.
For the ultimate apres scene, Le Chamois
After a long day of downhill, some apres is definitely in order. Head to Le Chamois (aka The Chammy), a long time skier and snowboarder favorite that draws a fun and mellow crowd. It’s the perfect spot to kick off your boots and grab a pint after a day on the slopes at Palisades Tahoe. Pub grub like pizza and fries (plus healthier options like salads and sandwiches) pair perfectly with its mix of domestic and premium brews. And if you’re with a crew, check out the buddy-pass and pitcher-pass options that give you discounts on big orders.
For great bakes and grab-and-go delights, Tahoe House
Tahoe House has a “grandma’s kitchen in the woods” vibe. As you walk in, the smell of baking bread and cakes, the warmth from the ovens, and the delicious things set out on display are like an open invitation to chow down. At breakfast, the cases are lined with European-inspired pastries like Nussgipfel (nut croissants) and Black Forest Ham and Gruyere Cheese Croissants, pointing to the owner’s Swiss roots. At lunch, sandwiches on freshly baked breads are perfect for settling into the cozy dining room or taking to go. And if you’ve got something special to celebrate, pick up a dessert like Sacher Torte or cannoli cream cake.
Places to stay
Lake views, ski-in/ski-out fun, or cozy forest chic—it’s all possible.
For ski-in, ski-out condos, Red Wolf Lodge at Olympic Valley
If we had to describe the mood at Red Wolf Lodge, we’d call it “mellow chalet.” The key feature is ski-in, ski-out access to Palisades Tahoe. But it’s also well designed for groups, with one- and two-bedroom condos plus studios. And then there’s the decor, all knotty pine furniture, comfortable couches, and cozy blankets perfect for an easy ski weekend. The rustic charm feels fresh though, since the property has been recently renovated, and the location is close to all the fun of Palisades Village, including The Chammy.
For lakefront views, Mourelatos Lakeshore Resort
In winter and spring, a view of Lake Tahoe isn’t just about the blue sparkling water, it’s also about the snow-covered mountains surrounding the lake. You see this whole spectacular package from the big picture windows of Mourelatos Lakeshore Resort’s lakefront and lakeview studio suites. Depending on the room you book, you’ll score extras like fireplaces and kitchens. And since the suites line the resort’s private beach, you can look out and feel like it’s just you and the lake—and maybe a glass of wine.
For a mid-mountain luxe, Constellation Residences at Northstar
There’s a reason the Constellation Residences at Northstar feel extra homey. These condos are individually owned vacation rentals, so they mix the comforts of home with luxury hotel services. With big bedrooms and ensuite bathrooms, full dining rooms and kitchens—some units even have playrooms and video games for kids—this is a great spot for families and groups. Bonus points for its mid-mountain location at Northstar plus perks like ski concierges who hook you up with rentals and deal with all your gear.
For cozy cottages in the woods, The Cottage Inn
On the outside, the Cottage Inn is pure snowy storybook charm, a cluster of little snow-dusted log cabins in the woods. And inside, themed rooms and suites feel more like someone’s home than your typical chain hotel room. Quilts, easy chairs, and fireplaces set the scene. And depending on the room, your decor might get a boost from exposed beams, dream catchers, or window seats. That welcoming vibe continues with the free hot daily breakfast setting you up for a day on the slopes.
For affordable and rustic old Tahoe, Tamarack Lodge
Here’s something you can’t say about every hotel: Tamarack Lodge started life in the 1920s as a speakeasy and card room. It became a hotel after the great-grandfather of the current owner won it in a card game. In the four generations since, it’s been a Tahoe mainstay, a place that’s been updated over the years but still holds on to plenty of rustic “old Tahoe” charm—think knotty pine hex tiles and covered porches. About half the rooms have kitchens, and the property welcomes pets.