3 perfect days in Seoul

Seoul is a sprawling city, and I’ll admit that as much as I loved it, I was not prepared for its size and scope. So when I went back recently, I made sure to plan accordingly.

The South Korean capital is a mix of contradictions—towering skyscrapers abut historic Hanok homes, tranquil tea houses dot buzzy shopping districts. I wanted to experience it all, so I designed the ultimate itinerary, including real Tripadvisor traveler reviews and ratings to round it out. Here’s my guide for the perfect three days of sightseeing in Seoul.

Walk through the ancient Sungnyemun Gate (one of Seoul’s original fortress entrances) to get to Namdaemun. Dating back to the 15th-century Joseon Dynasty, it’s South Korea’s oldest and largest market. Here, thousands of stores sell everything from hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) to herbal teas. The streets are also lined by food stalls, where you can try local specialties like kalguksu (hand-cut wheat noodles), yeot-gangjeong (nutty candy), and hotteok (fried pancake filled with cinnamon, brown sugar, and honey). Tip: Download the Google Translate app in advance; you’ll want it to read the menus and signs and I found it super helpful.

From Namdaemun, walk 10 minutes to Namsan Park. If your legs are tired, and you don’t want to hike a half-hour up the mountain, hop on the cable car to N Seoul Tower. The jaw-dropping 360-degree skyline views are worth it. Plus, by coming in the morning, you’ll avoid the crowds that gather at sunset.

Just 10 minutes north, Myeongdong shopping district is the first place I make a beeline to when I arrive in Seoul. I’m obsessed with Korean skincare products, so I always stock up at Olive Young and Innisfree, both of which have multiple outposts in Myeongdong. Beyond beauty, there are stores specializing in whatever you fancy (yes, K-pop fan merch, too).

Around 3 to 4 p.m. Myeongdong’s famous night market opens. You’ll smell it before you see it: Nearly 150 food stalls offer local delicacies like cheesy lobster, grilled abalones, and Busan fishcakes. Prefer meat over seafood? Satisfy your Korean fried chicken fix at BBQ Chicken or BHC, two of the city’s most popular chains. (Tip: The line on the left is for to-go orders while the right line is for dining in.) To avoid a food coma, get a quick pick-me-up latte at Coffee Libre, hidden inside Myeongdong Cathedral.

The glamorous Gangnam-gu district, a half-hour subway away, is home to upscale nightclubs, fine-dining restaurants, and designer stores. Before a late night out, slow down at Bongeunsa, an 8th-century Buddhist temple. This peaceful haven has woodblock carvings and a 91-foot stone statue of Maitreya, the Future Buddha. The best part? It’s usually quiet around sunset, when the lanterns light up and monks sound the gongs. Then, continue relaxing at Sulwhasoo Spa. I swear by the ginseng facial and back treatment, and I often buy the overnight vitalizing mask as a souvenir.

For dinner, head next door to Ryunique, where Chef Tae Hwan Ryu will take you on an 11-course journey. Highlights include: bacon-wrapped quail egg with beet sauce, and abalone with cucumber and red quinoa. Desserts are works of art—I still dream of the coconut caramel apple cotton candy. End the evening at Imbibe, a cocktail bar with an extensive whiskey selection.

Follow in the footsteps of Korean royalty at Gyeongbokgung Palace, built by the Joseon Dynasty in 1395. The property has manicured gardens and intricate pavilions as well as two museums (included in your admission ticket): the National Palace Museum and National Folk Museum. The changing of the guard happens at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. every day except Tuesday, when Gyeongbokgung is closed. If you have time, take a five-minute Uber to Changgyeonggung Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s considered a masterpiece for its ornamental architecture. Plan accordingly: It’s closed on Mondays, as are most of the palaces.

Sandwiched between the two palaces, Bukchon Hanok Village has hundreds of houses dating back to the 14th century. Today, these hilltop residences have been turned into artist studios, small museums, and tea rooms. Cha-teul is a favorite for its mountain views; I love the steamed pumpkin rice cake and chrysanthemum tea. From here, head a few blocks south to eat Korean dumplings at Bukchon Son Mandu Samcheong-dong or the fragrant chicken broth at Oreno Ramen Insa.

Continue a block south to Insadong's pedestrian “artist alley” of galleries selling pottery, handmade Hanji paper, and paintings. Pop in Shin Tea House (open until 10 p.m.) and have a cup of green plum tea in the zen courtyard, or visit Ssamziegil's independent boutiques (check out the view from the fourth floor). Keep walking, and you’ll soon cross the seven-mile Cheonggyecheon Stream. A popular K-drama filming location, this waterway is especially beautiful at night when it’s illuminated in rainbow lights, lanterns, and art installations. Don’t forget your camera!

Save room for dinner at Charles H. inside the elegant Four Seasons Hotel. Inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, this low-lit dining room has handsome leather booths and a bar serving creative cocktails like the London Rhubarb Gimlet. Pair it with some small bites, such as truffle arancini and mini lobster rolls (my first pick). In the mood for a nightcap? Move upstairs to the lively OUL bar, where DJs spin tracks on the weekend.

Start your day at Haneul Park, an easy 35-minute metro away. This beautiful green space is one of the five parks that were built to commemorate the World Cup. Its observatory deck has vast views of the Han River, and the nature is a nice respite from the city’s hustle and bustle. I particularly love the fall, when the pampas grass blooms and the ginkgo maple trees turn gold. Tip: Wear comfortable walking shoes as Haneul Park has quite a few hills.

Catch a 10-minute cab to Hongdae, where creative types congregate and students attend Hongik University. Look up: Murals and street art are scattered all around this up-and-coming neighborhood. On Saturday afternoons between March and November, Hongdae Free Market features handicrafts, clothing, and homegoods made by local artists.

Hongdae really comes alive around happy hour. You’ll feel the energy shift, especially along University Street, which is lined with bustling bars and restaurants. One of my favorites is Meat Master Hongdae, a killer Korean BBQ joint (you must taste the pork belly and kimchi stew). After, walk two blocks to a noraebang (karaoke bar)—Helicon and Su tend to be busy.

A former redlight district, Itaewon has quickly become a nightlife hub of live music, LGBTQ+ bars, and dance clubs. Start with a pint of pale ale at Magpie Brewing Co., then soak up the suds in Bawi Pasta Bar. At Chef Kim Hyun-Joong’s eight-seat counter, he makes noodles by hand (his signature mint pistachio pesto dish is to die for). Tip: Reserve your spot far in advance. End the epic trip with some sax at All That Jazz, just around the corner. Opened in 1978, the cabaret-style space is South Korea’s first jazz joint, and it’s still going strong thanks to its soulful brass bands.