7 LA restaurants to try when the top tables are booked
Skip the city’s most notable names for these local favorites.
As an LA native (yes, we exist), part of the joy of going out to eat here is discovering great food in places you least expected. Whether it’s rustic Italian inside a strip mall, shrimp cocktails in an old-school steakhouse, or a lunchtime oasis off one of LA’s busiest drags, it’s often the hidden gems—low on the curb appeal—that underpin the city’s vibrant culinary scene.
So, skip the rooftop hotspots and consider one of these insider picks, instead. The best part? Unlike most buzzy restaurants in LA, you don’t have to know someone to get in.
Instead of Musso and Frank, try Taylor’s Steakhouse
Catering to Hollywood’s elite (and us lowly regulars, too) since 1919, it’s no surprise that Musso & Frank is the city’s classic go-to grill. But reservations are hard to nab, even for 5 p.m. slots a whole month in advance.
For similar appeal (think: red banquettes and Hollywood history) head to Taylor’s Steakhouse, which dates back to 1953. The Koreatown outpost originally opened as “Taylor’s Tavern,” and with its moody lighting and striking wraparound bar, I can see why. I’d also argue that the shrimp cocktails are better and the steaks more tender. Order one with a side of mashed potatoes.
Travelers say: “Taylor's is very much a local hang out. It is still family-owned and has the cool vibe of a ‘60s fine-dining restaurant. The service is so perfect; the staff knows the menu and the bar selection well. If there were ever a place to sip a martini, this is it.” —@Elizabeth
Instead of Bestia, try Antico Nuovo
Bestia, the first restaurant by husband and wife chefs Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis, still tops the city’s hit lists. Even after 12 years, it’s still hard to book—and the same goes for their uber-hyped (albeit both delicious) Middle Eastern concepts Bavel and Saffy’s.
If it’s rustic Italian you’re craving, join the well-heeled set at Antico Nuovo. Don’t let the divey location (a Beverly Boulevard shopping center) dissuade you. Trust me on this one—real Angelenos know the best meals are always found in strip malls. Take one step inside, and you’ll be transported to an Italian countryside, complete with a wood-burning hearth and olive trees.
The sky-high focaccia is a must, as are the handmade pastas (beef cheek and veal tongue bolognese, anyone?). Just save room for dessert: The gelato is a mainstay menu item, with flavors like honeycomb and strawberry.
Travelers say: “Spectacular food and impeccable service. Can't say enough about this hidden gem. True haute cuisine in the most unlikely place. Subtle flavors and beautiful presentation on the plate.” —@James A
Instead of Salazar, try Loreto
Elysian Valley, affectionately known as Frogtown, is a quiet stretch of land nestled between the Los Angeles River and the Golden State Freeway. Its rich dining scene was cemented by the 2016 opening of Salazar, an alfresco Mexican BBQ joint. While the homemade flour tortillas and hibiscus margaritas do hit the spot—the hard-to-get reservations certainly don’t.
That’s where Loreto comes in. Inspired by Mexico’s west coast, the menu is firmly rooted in fresh seafood—from scallop and uni tostadas to butterflied zarandeados, a Nayarit-style grilled fish served with tortillas and quesadillas. The wine list matches the Baja-sourced seafood and is peppered with bottles from Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico’s wine country three hours south. Bright interiors and a chic crowd make this a see-and-be-seen restaurant.
Reservations are aplenty, and walk-ins are accepted. Plus, during the day, the charming, tree-lined back patio is shared with Mariscos Za Za Zá, a casual lunch counter with an entirely different (and equally yummy) menu.
Instead of Joan’s On Third, try Cafe Telegrama
If LA is the home of the power lunch, then Joan’s On Third is the crown jewel. What was once a celebrity hotspot is still slammed with locals and tourists alike—firing orders for its staple Chinese chicken salads.
These days, the cool kids flock a bit further east (as they do) to the brand new Cafe Telegrama. On an admittedly random stretch of Western Ave—now billed Melrose Hill—lies a veritable oasis. Flanked in green tile with a sun-drenched patio, Cafe Telegrama is the brainchild of Estela alum John Zabawa and Marea alum Evan Algorri, making it the hangout for all of LA’s ex-New Yorkers.
Unlike Ètra, its new Italian offshoot next door, Cafe Telegrama is first-come, first-served. The afternoon menu is elegant yet simple. I recommend the ricotta pancakes, the mortadella and burrata sandwich, and the latte using grounds from Echo Park’s beloved Canyon Coffee.
Instead of Dudley Market, try Crudo e Nudo
Ah, Venice. The east side of the west side, if you will. With its hipsterdom comes one thing: natural wine. Paired with top-tier seafood, you’ll get the formula for the nabe’s most sought-after tables. Dudley Market, a date night destination right off the Venice boardwalk, is perpetually slammed—and for good reason. The magical, twinkle-light strewn alley and discotheque-style interior makes it the place to get down (oyster in hand) on a Saturday night. But with walk-ins only on Wednesday through Sunday, you may be looking at a two-hour wait.
Five minutes up the road in Ocean Park is another pretty patio with excellent—dare I say better—seafood and pét-nat. At Crudo e Nudo, the highlight is, of course, the crudo: kanpachi, abalone, rockfish, you name it. But don’t skip the tuna tartare toast and the mezze platter (sourced from the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market). If you really can’t decide, there’s the five-course Neptune’s Flight tasting menu that gives you a bite of everything. Reservations are (shockingly) easy to come by for lunch and dinner.
Travelers say: “Despite its informal atmosphere, this was without a doubt our finest meal. The halibut crudo was one of the best dishes I've had this year—the brightness of the fish was nicely complemented by the shiro dashi. My wife thought the ripe melon salad was extraordinary, too.” —@Leo M
Instead of Budonoki, try Tsubaki
Let me be clear about one thing: Both of these restaurants are very, very good. If you’re lucky enough to nab a seat at Virgil Village’s brand new izakaya Budonoki, get yourself over there—and bring friends. The dimly-lit space pulsates with an energy that falls somewhere between an expertly curated dinner party and a video game. The drinks are kitschy, but the food is downright excellent: pressed sushi, Snake River Farms wagyu, and crispy Brussels sprouts with miso caesar. But because reservations are released a week out, it’s hard to secure one.
Instead, Echo Park’s izakaya, Tsubaki, books far in advance and always seems to have availability—which is surprising as it dishes up some of the best Japanese food in the city. Yakitori is the star of the show here, and these wagyu skewers and miso caesar are an absolute must. Continue your evening with a nightcap next door at sister saké bar Ototo.
Travelers say: “Tsubaki is a gourmet Japanese restaurant that offers small, shareable plates. The shumai (steamed pork dumplings) and charcoal-grilled chicken oyster yakitori were outstanding. The grilled cabbage in miso butter was sweet and full of flavor.” —@Ron W
Instead of Don Antonio’s, try Gilbert’s El Indio
Talk about traditional Mexican food, and a trio of notable restaurants comes to mind: El Coyote in Mid City, El Compadre in Echo Park and Hollywood, and Don Antonio’s in West LA. The common denominator? They’re constantly packed and known more for their vibe than their food.
Instead of braving the walk-in line at Don Antonio’s, head a few blocks west to Gilbert’s El Indio, a family-run restaurant that’s been serving Santa Monica since 1973. Great for dinner with friends, Gilbert’s is the real deal—with all the free pickled carrots and spicy-but-not-burning salsa to prove it. Get a combination platter (I’m fond of the crispy beef taco and cheese enchilada), a margarita, and enjoy Mexican comfort food at its finest. Note: It also doesn’t take reservations, but the waitlist moves quickly.
Travelers say: “Three generations work hard to make Gilbert's El Indio the place to go for good food, genuinely caring staff, and authentic decor, full of family photos and mementos. We've tried all of the Mexican restaurants in Santa Monica—from the small, locally-owned operations to the chain restaurants—and Gilbert's is far and away the best in every regard. ” —@RThyme