A rural gem that we discovered 'by accident', which goes to prove that miracles still happen.

A last minute holiday opportunity coincided with a new Ryanair route, to a destination totally new to us, which lead to a search for a rural retreat not too far from Alghera airport in north-eastern Sardinia and, hey-presto, we found the Funtanarena Hotel. With terms like 'fun' and 'tan' one just has to be intrigued - and we were.

An exchange of warm, friendly emails found us booking for two nights. That was our one mistake, for we should have stayed longer.

The flight arrived late at night and our drive in pitch black made us feel a little anxious over the last few kilometres, but we arrived safely, were greeted and taken to a very spacious bedroom. The next morning we went down to the large dining room, to find to our amazement that we were the only guests in the Hotel. The season had virtually finished; some Americans were expected in a weeks time and they were to signal the final end to the season.

The timing of our booking proved a real bonus, for we had Marisa, our charming Hostess, all to ourselves. Over a delicious breakfast we were able to glean numerous ideas for places of interest to visit that day. Her interests in history matched our own and her knowledge was shared in perfect English! Every minute of the day was a joy, starting with the daylight discovery of the scenic grandeur of the previous night's journey.

We had booked dinner at the Hotel that night on the proviso that our table was laid for three so that Marisa could eat with us. Her hospitality, as well as her cooking, was first class.

The Hotel is on the edge of the small town of Codrongianos and so a peaceful yet convenient location. Parking is in an orchard dripping with fruit and walnut trees, most of which we sampled (and many of the ripe walnuts returned home with us to England, courtesy of our hostess).

We had wanted peace, warmth, friendliness and rustic charm; we found all that and more. We were not wanting discos, bright lights, noise and a swimming pool or spa was not a requisit. If, like us, you want to find a taste of genuine Sardinia, we recommend you consider this Hotel. Clearly, our visit was 'out of season' and that proved to be a bonus. The whole experience was enhanced by the charm, warmth and sincerity of our Hostess and she 'made' our introduction to Sardinia so perfect that we are hopeful for the chance to return.