Getting there - Took the Utkal exp from Delhi to Umaria. It reached on time at 5.45 am. Umaria to the hotel is 34 kms and cost 450 by auto.

Stay - We had the air cooled room. It was a properly built room (see photos). Very comfortable. Booked it online using the MP tourism site. The room seemed fairly new. Bathroom was decent and clean. Only issue I felt was that in Dec end the temperature is about 5 degrees at night but the resort provides only a light blanket, which is not enough. Food was good and staff was friendly.

Getting back - Took a cab - cost 1300 - from the resort to Katni station (100 kms) to catch the Gondwana Exp back to Delhi.

I visited Bandhavgarh, onwards from Khajuraho, along with some friends in mid 2011, for some wildlife adventure - basically to see the Royal Bengal. Bandhavgarh is THE place to be in, if one wants to spot the Royal Bengal tiger, amongst many other exotic wild animals and birds.

We were actually booked to stay in another hotel, however upon not liking that place, we decided to scout around to see for other options. And man! Were we lucky we found the White Tiger Forest Lodge, an MP tourism property? It's right next to the Tala gate of the Bandhavgarh National Park, on the outskirts of the park. Being a government owned and run property, we didn't expect any frills; only to be pleasantly surprised! We were offered two villas, overlooking the park. The rooms were super clean, with all basic amenities like hot water, TV, AC, etc. The food is simple, yet amazing to taste. We had a lovely 'machaan' right in front of our villas, where we'd spend the evening lighting a bonfire, cooking chicken, and simply making merry. One hears sounds of wild animals like elephants, hyenas, cheetal, and the tiger, ofcourse, right from the hotel itself.

The hotel also offers space for people who love to camp out in the night for just 100 bucks a night... We had a group fo 50-60 campers who had landed from Delhi, and all of 'em had pitched up their tents in the hotel premises. It was an awesome experience. The hotel is exactly amidst the wilderness, and it gives you a truly wildlife experience.

Do stay ONLY at the White Tiger Forest Lodge, when you visit Bandhavgarh. You'll simply remember the experience, just like we do.

We have frequenting Bandhawgarh and have been staying at this plave all the time. This is a first time we felt that, we should lookout for other Hotels. No flaws in rooms and food. But for the price that you pay there are far better options. Booking process is also very difficult.

To reach Bandhavgarh you can other go through Delhi or Jabalpur.  For optimum usage of weekend for travel I took the Delhi route. From cochin I flew to delhi and took the afternoon train to Umaria. Reached Umaria in the early morning. From the railway station I proceeded to the "White Tiger Forest Lodge". As a thumb rule I always choose the hotels of the tourism department of the respective states. They would be located in prime location and be nearest to the national park, often situated in the buffer region of the park. Of course you would need to sacrifice the luxuries that the private resorts offer but then roughing it out is part of the experience. 

The hotel reservation & jeep safaris into the park are done on-line. By doing so you can get assured entry into "Tala" gate which is known to be the best for sighting Tigers. When you book online it is a jeep that is booked & not a seat. However you will normally find people without bookings if it is peak season who can accompany you and share the costs. Apart from the driver there is a mandatory guide from the forest department who sits on the left side of the last row of the jeep. The quality of these guides are poor. Of the 3 trips I made, only one guide was passionate about his work. For the other 2 it was just a job. 

The resort is situated in the buffer region just bordering the national park and it takes around 45 minutes to reach there from the railway station. you can either opt for private taxi, auto or bus. As you drive from the railway station to the resort you are transported from urban life to the beautiful lap of nature. The transformation of the landscape is indeed very breathtaking.

The rooms are basic. The plumbing is bad. Water is rusty & tastes bad. Food is basic and okay. Room service is slow. The cottages at the back of the resort is the best. This faces the national park. There is a stream separating the property from the park. Tiger pug marks were visible on the banks of the stream. You cannot get closer to the park in any other property.

There are 4 primary routes in the "Tala" region & each safari is a combination of 2 routes allocated randomly.3 trips are recommended. The evening trips are shorter by an hour due to fading light, however the sightings are better in the evening session.

Though tigers are the main attraction the park has abundant variety of  birds & animals.

It was on my third & last safari that I could get to see the majestic Tiger. He was lying on the soft sand of jeep tracks right in front of us. For the next one hour we followed him as he moved in & out of our view. I must have taken over 700 frames & got some very good shots of the Tiger. I also got to see many varieties of birds such as Vultures, Shrikes, Owls, Storks & animals such as Mongoose, wild boar, barking/samba/spotted deer, Jackal etc..