We were lost... we had missed the right exit for Dijon... it was late and dark. We came off the autoroute and found the only place still open in the first village we came to - a bar, which was closing. The owner said he would conduct us to an inn, but first he would telephone to see if they had a room. They did. Fifteen minutes later, and full of trepidation, after a drive through twisting lanes, we arrive at .... a fairytale sight: an old , half timbered inn, opposite a village church, the sound of a river babbling in the background. Inside, in a heavily beamed dining room, hams and sausages were curing above the wood fire. The sitting room had another blazing log fire. Everywhere, small arrangements of flowers, or farm objects, caught your eye: still lives. The staff couldn't have been nicer: at eleven o'clock, they offered to open the kitchen to get us some food. Our room was spacious, the bathroom sparkling. We were sorry to leave next morning, after an excellent breakfast. Quatr'Heurie is "the real thing". Use it as base to explore some of the Burgundian wine vilages . It is, as a distinguished French guide might say - if it knew about it - "vaut le detour".