I visited the Sani Lodge in January, 2012. It's a fantastic place to explore the Ecuadorian Amazon ecosystem and experience the diverse wildlife and culture of the region. But it may not be for everyone - the food is fine but not outstanding, the english language is not well spoken by most staff (which can lead to interesting results), the facilities are in various states of disrepair and yes, having encountered a tarantula on my bed reminded me that this is the wild Amazon. I don't consider these issues as problems - just some things to help you prepare and plan for. It takes an effort to get there but for me the wildlife, people and Amazon experience paid back abundantly.
We flew from Quito to Coca by Aerogal - a very pleasant flight. Sani staff picked us up at the airport and transported us through the bustling town core to the docks. There we were met by the Sani Lodge motorized canoe and transported down river for over two hours before landing at their main dock. You then walk for 15 minutes across an elevated, slippery boardwalk where you are met by smaller canoes. Their boatmen paddle you through small creeks and tributaries into the lagoon and on to the lodge. By the time you arrive, you know you are for something special - the thatched roof huts, bananas hanging from the railings, the loud and haunting sounds of the jungle and the hot, heavy, humid air.
People are housed in cabins around a central yard. The cabins range from quite nice to those in need of repair. Our cabin had no electricity at all, even when it was theoretically available. And the sink fell off our bathroom wall and could not be repaired before we left. The windows are just screen mesh so outdoor sounds penetrate the sleeping area freely. Mosquito nets are provided but I didn't find them necessary. Other cabins seemed to be more recently renovated.
The solar panels were not working so the only source of power came from a generator which was not available from late morning until about 5:00 pm. There is no hot water so the showers were in cold water. Water is not drinkable from the taps but bottled water was readily available. Meals are served at fixed times in a lovely dining lodge, and everyone gets the same food (unless you had made special requests). Lots of juices and soups were delicious but the main courses were not thrilling for me (don't want to see fried yuca again for a long time!). But it certainly was adequate and many found the food to be very good. Forget about the coffee - I don't know how they made it but it was terrible. It is thick and has a distinct tar-like taste and smell and needs to be diluted with copious amounts of milk and water. I found coffee at most lodges, not just Sani, to be made this way. Smart travelers bring a supply of their own coffee, a bodem and use the boiled water to make their own.
Our group had special arrangements for guides and activities so we did not depend on the lodge itinerary. Our guides (Carlos and Domingo) were fantastic local natives who knew this place like no others. If a bird in the jungle winked an eye, they picked it out instantly. Their English was very basic but their good nature helped to overcome any barriers and we always found a happy result. Things that I would consider to be "must do" are the tower where you climb 130 feet into the canopy of a huge tree and look down on the jungle as aracaris, toucans, and other birds land on nearby branches. The parrot clay licks are amazing but you might have to wait for the birds to show up. Paddling the lagoon around the edges created many wildlife viewing situations. The night-time guided walks are also worth while.
We were fortunate to visit the Sani community and share a native meal with the residents. They are obviously proud of the Sani Lodge model of self-sustaining business by local natives.
I would give the Sani Lodge a 5 star rating if it were not that this place may not be for everyone. There were some people there that were disappointed, mainly because they did not understand what they were getting in to. But for me, Sani Lodge ranks very high and I commend their efforts and spirit. I would return without question.
- Sani Hotel Quito
- Sani Resort All Inclusive
