Although virtually nobody today has personal experience of the Art Deco period of the nineteen twenties and thirties, there is still a generation around that were fascinated during the seventies by the transformation of Derry and Toms, Kensington High Street, into BIBA (and later mourned its corporate destruction by Marks and Spencer). But this generation who browsed amongst petrol blue ostrich feathers or drank espresso in the Rainbow Restaurant might well revisit their lost youth by climbing aboard the Sea Tractor and crossing the waves to the mint-green and white icon that is Burgh Island.
One minor flaw in the arrival was the instruction to telephone the hotel once near Bigbury on Sea, for all the airtime providers fail miserably in the depths of the narrow Devon lanes. A tip is to phone far away, whilst you still have signal. But don’t despair, from the briefest digital fragments, the manager will recognise an impending arrival and despatch the Captain of the Tractor (or a black Discovery at low tide). Although initially nervous from reading dubious reviews, we found all the staff (from Garry, the undisputed Scottish master of hospitality who always makes time for an informative chat, to the youngest Estonian waitress) witty, helpful and courteous – and first impressions were borne out throughout our stay. We all left in the belief that somewhere, just out of sight, there was also an invisible Jeeves, ensuring our needs were met with silent efficiency.
Burgh Island’s collection of pictures and artefacts assembled over many decades are not only a source of wonder but lend the building a sense or reverence. Dismiss it as a tired theme park and maybe you are missing the point. Make a direct comparison with the immediate luxury of a London five-star and it will be found wanting, but buy into it wholeheartedly; become a member of the cast and you’ll have a great stay.
Though some suites of rooms are not large, each is a little oasis of pre-war comfort. It is a blessed relief not to walk in to a flat-screen, welcoming you by name and advertising the restaurant and fitness club (although the hotel is excellently equipped with both). Another mark of a good hotel bedroom is excellent bed linen and visitors cannot be disappointed by the fine, crisp Egyptian cotton sheets and pillows (each with its subtle Deco motif).
The restaurant has received mixed reviews in the past, but that weekend we found that the chef selected well from good local sources and first quality, fresh produce helped ensure excellent, beautifully presented meals. Maybe we all chose well.
We would hope to return.
MJ and AES; Hope Suite, mid-November 2011
Room Tip: If the wind is strong and from the South, the rooms overlooking the Causeway are quieter at night.
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This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC