A friend and I decided to stay at the Phool Mahal Palace in Kishangarh, Rajasthan, as it was off the beaten track, and we really benefited from our choice.

First the hotel. For the last 5 years there has been a serious drought in the area, so there is no longer a lake lapping the sides of the hotel - however, this does not detract as much as you'd think as enterprising locals have turned the lake bed into verdant fields (see pic). The room we had was huge (111), on the first floor, extensive view, two double beds, large bathroom. It was simply but attractively fitted, and very clean. There were also some wall paintings.

We had a good meal in the restaurant. There is a resident artist who is slowly painting all the walls in a traditional way with scenes from Krishna's life. He also has a small studio from which he sells his miniature and other paintings, including copies of photographs sent by tourists! There is also a massive, comfortable lounge room.

The hospitality we encountered was in part from all the staff, and in large part from the hotel manager, who took us on a tour of the attached (partly derelict) fort, and then the old town, where we were able to meet people, sample the street food, and learn about life in a bustling small town in Rajasthan.

Although we only stayed one night, it was memorable.