My wife Peg and I discovered Kino Bay quite by accident. Lots of first-rate things happen like that, and travel wise this was one of the most exciting "finds" in a long time. But, you know how it is: somebody recommends a place, and you go to great lengths of time and expense to check it out, and wind up saying to yourself: "what the heck is so special about this place - it's not for us".
Well, Kino was kind of like that, only in the other extreme. After getting there and spending a few days we were sad to leave, and we commented that we wish we had known about it years ago. it all came about like this.
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We were home exchanging for the winter in Arizona two years ago, and in a conversation we were informed about the "greatest undiscovered, laid back place in Mexico". We learned that Kino was a good day's drive from the Phoenix area, and if it was the swinging, disco nightlife we were after, then stay away. We were informed that Kino was a place for lazing around on deserted beaches, and sampling great Mexican cuisine. It sounded great, so having a few days between home swaps, we decided to check it out.
One cool morning we headed south from Green Valley AZ. In Nogalas we did some shopping, and stayed over night. We bought the required Mexican car insurance, filled up with cheap gas (ONLY $1.70/gal. and much cheaper than Pemex across the border), and headed out.
For anyone contemplating driving to Kino, we would absolutely discourage you from doing so! We say that not for safety reasons alone, but more for time lost, expense wise, and the utter frustration of it all. Of course everyone is aware of the drug war going on all along our southern border. Hardly a week passes that there isn't a news item about a shooting or kidnapping.
Aside from that, the Mexican Government has made driving into their country so expensive, irritating and downright difficult that once done is enough for a lifetime. We made the mistake of doing it twice. The first year in our pick up truck, the second in a Class C motor home. Never again!
Peg and I have traveled all over the world, crossed borders in Europe (driving) numerous times, back and forth into Canada on many occasions, and NEVER have we had the distasteful experience we encountered going to Sonora Mexico
For openers, for insurance, visas and our car permits for the State of Sonora, we had to expend over $300. In addition, the cost of Gas in Mexico is outrageously high.
After crossing the border at Nogales, about twenty miles south on Rte. 15, you come to the customs checkpoint. Here, you park your vehicle and walk to the complex to be processed by the most antiquated, frustrating and time consuming government bureaucracy we have ever encountered. I jokingly equate it with trying to get from Nazi Germany into Switzerland in 1940!
One thing that has always bothered Peg and I, is Americans who go to a foreign contry and are so irritated because the natives don't speak English. Well, I have made an exception here. At this border control check point, probably 90% of those who stop are Americans, but if my memory serves me correctly, only one or two on duty speak English, making the process bog down unbelievably.
At this point, the first decision you must make is where you intend to go in Mexico. to stay in Sonora, you go to one office. Choosing to get your visa and car permit there, you are not allowed to go out of that state. In addition, you must return to that same place by the date indicated to get checked out when you are leaving the country.
If you plan on touring the country, then you have to be processed in another building. It's up to you to guess (unless you speak Spaninsh) where to go. If there is any number of fellow travelers being processed, count on spending considerable time being shuffled from line to line: not a fun experience at all.
Oh yeah, to add insult to injury, after you leave the checkpoint, you can look forward to miles and miles of expensive toll road south.
A much easier, more relaxed way to get to Kino is to fly into Hermosollo. From there you can tak a bus right to the beach, rent a car, or have someone pick you up. You can also fly into a small airstrip at Kino. No matter how you choose to get there, once arrived your troubles and frustrations seem to melt away.
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Bahia Kino (Kino Bay) is around 250 miles south and west of Nogales AZ on the Sea of Cortez (or Gulf of California depending on whigh map you use). One of its most prominent landmarks is Tiburon Island, just to the north of the beach. From looking at my map, it appears that Tiburon is the largest island in the Sea. Many archeological finds have been discovered there, relics of the Seri Indians that one dominated the area.
Kino is devided into two very distinct communities: Kino Viejo (Old Kino) and Kino Nuevo. It is a lovely area of sparkiling, clear water and bordered by long, wide sandy beaches. Calm days mullet can be seen leaping, dolphins cruise the area, and flocks of brown pelicans crash dive continuoulsy feeding on the abundant fish.
Standing looking out at the peaceful ocean, one only has to do an about face and the view changes dramatically. High craggy mountains rise out of the desert only a few miles to the north and east, creating the allusion of being in the Rocky Mountains.
Peg and I have only visited this paradise during the winter months, and to see more than a handrul of people on the beach, (excepting weekends when there may be two handfuls), is a rarity. The winter population seems to be mostly snow birds from the mid west and Canada, and are seldom seen on the beaches. We understand however, at other times in the year the area is busy with Mexican families enjoying their natural resources.
New Kinjo stretches along the beach for a distance of a few miles. The road ends abruptly at a RV park with a launch ramp. The paved road is about the only one in the community, the rest being a patchwork of dirt tracks that criss cross and bisect. They all seem to have the mountains and beachas destinations.
Between the paved road and the ocean, one and twop story white stucco dwellings provide housing for the rarely seen vacationers, many are for rent. Listings on these places can be obtained from google.com Just plug in Kino Bay and happy surfing.
Many of these structures, mostly extravagant affairs architectually designed in a pleasing Mediterranean villa style, are strangely in various stages of neglect. here and there are empty lots, which give access to the always public beach. there are several motor home parks in the area slso, some right on the beach, along with a few condos.
Small markets, a museum of local culture, and several pub style restaurants complete the neighborhood. there is even a desert golf corse to confront the talents of visitors. It is as basic as it could possibly be having no grass at all, lots of scrub and cactus to carefully avoid, but is challenged daily by at least a few souls bent on getting a little exercise.
Following the recommendations of the informant that sent us there in the first place, we sought out Caluma Bungalos as a beginning point to explore the region. On the right side of the street, about three quarters of the way to the end of the road and one block from the ocean, Caluma became our anchorage for both of the years we went there.
I believe there are ten single story units in the small three-sided complex, all of them efficiency units. We have stayed in three rooms, and they all have the same layout. The sitting, dining and kitchen area is separated from the single bedroom, some with twin beds - some with doubles - by floor to ceiling lattice work, allowing heat from the gas stove to penetrate into the sleeping area on cool evenings, and breaths of fresh air from the a.c. unit in warm. The bath with shower is to the front.
The way I understand it, the place is owned by a group in Hermosillo. From Fall through early spring it is managed be Dave and his wife Mary, natives of S. Dakota. Also, an on site friendly Mexican family co-manages and does the day-to-day maintenance, laundry, etc. When Dave and Vary leave in the spring, Armando and his family take over full duties for the summer.
Each unit is provided with a microwave, toaster, gas stove with oven and other basics, but no TV destracts the visitors from the simplicity and beauty of the area.
Keep in mind that this is basically undeveloped Mexico. if you crave the Marriott and Hilton type accommodations available at Cancun or Acapulco, don't wast your time going to Kino. However, if you can survive in the basic surroundings provided by Caluma, there is a wonderful world to explore and experience outside your door. And the cost is typical Mexican. We stayed at Caluma for an unbelievable price of less than $300 for a month.
For more on the place, plug into google again, and then Caluma Bungalows.
Hiking, sunning and swimming, fishing, kayaking and sampling local cuisine opportunities abound. In addition, we have never seen such a wonderful place to collect shells (exceptional in Old Kino). Peg has created three of the most beautiful lamps I have dver seen with them. Of course a visit to Old Kino is always not to be missed. Some of the best restaurants are there.
In contrast to Kino Nuevo, the older settlement is the orginal area occupied - probably for many years if not centuries. Here is a hapahazard community of small one room black tarpaper shacks, occupied mostly by local fishermen and their families.
All the dwellings follow a similar construction pattern, and are surrounded by lots of various sizes. Most are cordoned off with fences mostly of materials available free for the taking.
Some use ocotillo shoots fastened together and stuck in the ground. Amazingly, these stalks sprout leaves and blossoms in a short time after being placed.
Other places are surrounded by rejected fish netting, or with broken pallets. A few of the houses have electricity - none have plumbing: some have out-houses. On any given day, freshly washed laundry can be seen "flying" from various supports. Life here is in its most basic, and it appears nothing matters except survival.
At first observasion, a stranger driving through the area might react to the obvious poverty by closing all their car windows, locking doors and leaving as quickly as they could navigate the rutted and often muddy roads.
That would be a shame, because if the stranger stops to interface with the residents, they will find how mistaken first impressions can be. We discovered a society of friendly, happy industrious members, who always have a smile and welcoming gesture for strangers.
Surprisingly, there are several internet cafes available for use for very reasonable prices: there are none in Kino Nuevo. As afore mentioned, there are neany local restaurants to choose from, as well as seafood and drug storres, bakeries, and a hardware store.
In a typidal days adventure, Peg and I had navigated our way through the muddy streets of Kino Viejo to the beautiful beach there. Sunning ourselves, our sleepy moods were interupted by the buzz of an outboard motor approaching. A smiling local fisherman beached his boat, and proceeded to tell us (in Spaninsh of course, but which Peg speaks fairly well) about his catch.
For the equivalent of about five U.S. dollars, he emptied his boat, and Peg and I went home with about a bushel of fresh, live blue crabs. Lots of work, but what a feast.
Uncharacteristically, the weather was a little out of sorts this past winter at Kino, as it was in most places due to the El Nino. there was more wind and rain than normal, and some cool days in comparison to the usual warmth. All in all the sun shown much of the time, and we didn't miss more than a few days on the beach - we used them to hike.
No matter what, it certainly was a great improvement from what all our family and friends were experiencing back in New England (like three feet of snow in one day), and of course, there's always next year.
So many places...so little time.