After 3 weeks of work near Moshi, I went to Zanzibar, fulfilling a desire 20 years old. While there, I read about Chumbe and was attracted by the description of great snorkeling. I called to learn more, and spoke with Laki, the reservation manager. As I look back now on something I will remember for a long, long time, I remember that contact with Laki, so helpful and friendly, as the first part of one of the most relaxing, pleasurable and joyous experiences I have had in years and years.

I decided I would stay one night and mentioned to Laki that I would possibly stay another, but that I would only be able to say once there. Fortunately, that option was available, since it wasn't high season. The next morning I was picked up from my hotel and brought to the dock. Within a half hour, I and about 9 other guests to Chumbe, some destined to stay just the day, others for at least one night, left on a 40-minute motor-boat ride to the island. (I love the Indian Ocean, boats and islands, so even this left me as happy as a clam.)

We waded through low tide to the shore and were greeted by "Barack," "Juma 2" and "Chagga" (presented as their nicknames) -- all so friendly, funny and delightful. Gathered in the rustic and gorgeous main building (ruins that have been renovated with thatch and wood), they welcomed us with freshly made juice and oriented us as to the day's activities and the island park's regulations. We were shown to our bungalows -- those of us who were night guests had our own, while the day guests shared two (a very thoughtful detail).

The bungalows are in and of themselves marvelous and, given the beauty of the environment, reason enough to stay a night. They really have to be seen to be imagined, as they are as aesthetically pleasing as they are functional and ecologically "correct." But to give you an idea, they are two stories high, open to the sea and surrounded by forest, accessed by short stairs leading to the living room with sofa, hammock and table, and a bathroom with sink, toilet and shower hidden from view by a wall. Stairs lead to the bedroom with a king-sized platform bed and box-style mosquito net, and shelves and rack to put away your clothes. Rain water is captured, coral filtered and stored underground, then hand-pumped up to a reservoir on the roof. Everything is made from organic material; perhaps even the "cement" of the wall and floors, which have a soft feeling. Furniture and "appointments" are hand-fashioned. The toilet uses compost. The shower's hot water and the LED lamps and bedside fan are solar powered. The walls are vented with thatch shades. Marine-themed mosaics decorate floor and wall. The crowning detail is the front second-floor wall that opens entirely by means of a pulley to create natural "air conditioning."

Activities include snorkeling, forest walks, intertidal walks, sailing on the ngalawa (like a cross between a dhow and a hobie cat), playing board games (Bao, anyone?), lying around the beach, climbing the lighthouse, and getting massages by Esther. There could be more, but time is so short, what with so much relaxing to do.

The snorkeling is, simply put, unbelievable. I had never seen coral or fish like that before, except on t.v. Every color, texture, shape, size, and pattern of coral, some a story high (!) make this truly a garden. The fish, including enormous sea turtles (and the reported, but by me not seen, gigantic lobster), are breathtaking -- including various species of clown fish, angel fish, parrot fish, lion fish, trumpet fish, blowfish, puffer fish, and so many whose names I'll never know.

There is the largest land-based crab, the coconut crab, visible at night in the forest, and something like a Dik-Dik during the day. There are the most melodious of birds, including a red one with a really long tail, to be heard from your bed in the morning. The sound of the ocean is so soothing... and there is sailing with Yussef and Shaabani, which for me was the deepest pleasure of all, as it took me back to when I was 20, living on Lamu, sailing the dhows. If you can speak Kiswahili, as I still can to some degree, you can talk all you want with them.

The food is delicious -- much of it right from the sea, prepared under your nose, so to speak. I bought a cookbook by the head chef. The presentation is in itself an art -- tables on the beach, candle light, your new friends around you, exuberant nature everywhere, and the sound and flavors of the sea.

The last thing I'd like to comment on is the staff, whom I absolutely adored: The aforementioned Laki, Barack, Juma 2, Chagga, Esther, Yussef and Shaabani. Besides them I had repeated contact with Juma 1 and Grace. All were truly friendly, a joy to be with, talented in their jobs, and become not just staff, but friends, too. (We keep in contact now.)

In the end I stayed three nights. I would have stayed more... It is not a cheap vacation spot, but I'd say it is justifiably expensive (for my wallet, anyhow), as all food and activities are included, and the money goes not only to paying staff, but to maintaining the marine sanctuary and to educational initiatives for local children and fishermen.

I hope some day to go back!

We were 4 Australian staying in Zanzibar for 1 month, and our day trip to chumbe island was an absolute highlight.
For $90 per person, we were transferred to and from the island, had an amazing lunch and even had our own bungalow for the day.
The snorkeling was incredible. It's a shallow coral reef just offshore with an abundance of different marine life, which was infinitely better than the 2 other snorkeling trips we did in Zanzibar.
The staff were very welcoming and lovely.
We highly recommend the day trip, and would have liked to stay overnight. But keep in mind, there is not much else to do on the island so only stay if nature is your scene.

We were looking for 2 weeks of bliss in the sunshine, and we found it on Chumbe Island! It really is the perfect place, and everyone leaves with happy memories, and wanting to go back: we certainly did.

The staff are all genuinely nice, well informed, and completely helpful and the place glows with the feeling that they're doing something really important in protecting the (amazing) reef and forest - which they are.

The low environmental impact lodges are wonderful (the compost toilets are great), the daily routine is relaxing but never boring, and the sea, sun, sand, reef and ambience are lovely.

Staying for 10 days we met people coming for the day, staying for one night, two, three or more, and everyone was having a wonderful time, and left feeling they'd been somewhere very special.

People who'd snorkelled all over the world were saying the reef was as good as or better than anything they'd ever seen, and that was our experience - you can swim off the beach at high tide to see beautiful coral, and the rangers organise 1, 2 or 3 snorkelling trips a day... the snorkelling is very easy because they drop you at the north end of the island, and a gentle current drifts you back to the lodge in about 60-90 minutes. There's always rangers to hand, and the boat waits at a discreet distance for safety, and to pick up anyone who wants to finish early.

The rangers really know their stuff, are helpful with beginners, and quick to point out turtles, rays, crocodile fish, lobsters and rare species. The forest is beautiful, and the views from the visitor centre, lodges, beach, and lighthouse stunning.

Food is simple, varied (vegetarians are well catered for) and tasted great, and better than the fare on the main island by far. Even after 10 days, there was still variety, and we looked forward to every meal.

The community education programme is huge, and means the fishing ban on the reef is 100% respected by the local fishermen (a massive achievement) - and it's great to know that the money you spend on a holiday is funding sustainable tourism, the development of the region, low environmental impact, and preserving an incredibly beautiful spot on the planet.

No windows, no doors, no locks, no mains power, no a/c (but there are fans by the bed, which work well) - it's just such a relaxing place.

All in all, we can't recommend Chumbe Island highly enough: if you love any/all of the following:
people;
beautiful places;
sun;
sea;
swimming;
snorkelling;
preserving the environment;

- you'll love chumbe too! - go for the day, go for a fortnight, it's a great place and any length of stay will be very memorable.

Tips for people going:
wear sandles/shorts for the boat trip over, you may have to wade if it's low tide ;-) (best to carry spare shorts in case you get them wet)
take (or borrow from chumbe) a wetsuit to protect you from the sun, and so you can stay in the water for the full 90 minutes without getting cool,
put suncream on the backs of your legs if you're snorkelling, they can burn if you're at all fair skinned
take a torch if you're staying overnight

If you can, Go! ;-)

For 2 night my partner and I stayed at Chumbe. It was simply magical. Here are a few reasons why you should go, which make it all worth it, regardless of the price:
The magnificent surroundings - peaceful and quiet with beautiful birds like the kingfisher and wonderful creatures such as the giant Coconut crab - an endangered species - awesome!
The best snorkeling - simply incredible! We were astounded at the variety of fish and coral and we even swam right next to a turtle! Was unforgettable.
The most delicious food - in fact the best tasting food that we experienced on our week stay in Zanzibar. Simply wonderful!
Candle lit dinner on the beach - very romantic - and they make it super special.
Very knowledgeable and friendly tour guides who tell you about your surroundings whilst you are there - when you go walking or snorkeling - so you learn a lot too on your holiday!
The service is fantastic - really wonderful people.
You basically have the whole island to yourself as there are only 7 bungalows -really quiet.
The eco bungalows - are comfortable and cool with a breeze that blows through in the morning. You also wake up to a beautiful view of the sea. And the compost toilets really save so much water and are not even stinky - dont worry!
And last but not least: because you will be supporting a great initiative when you come here to Chumbe. Your money spent here goes to educating the people of Zanzibar - school kids and fishermen etc - on the preciousness of their environment and how to protect it. This was the real winner for me and really feel that the more we support eco - tourism the better.

All in all a really special and amazing time was had here. We will definitely go back!
Thank you to all at Chumbe!