We stayed as a couple at Migrante over Christmas 2011.
We loved it. Woken by the sounds of breakfast being laid out below us
at around 8.00 and serenaded by the sadly late Cessaria Evoria through early evenings and siestas.
It is a guest house – but a very stylish one that feels like a boutique hotel.
The beautiful and charming owners live there as a family and were happy to help us whenever we needed it. So the feel is that you are a lucky house guest in some one else’s fabulous place. It is very relaxed.
In some ways Migrante undersells itself. The bar is the best in Sal Rei for sure.
For both drinks and ambience (definitely good caiparinhas using the local cane spirit). They also cook for you on request and that was the best restaurant experience we had in 10 days – sitting in the courtyard under a Christmas-decorated palm tree.
We weren’t expecting much from the food in Boa Vista but were, overall, pleasantly surprised. The local wine from Fogo island is exceptional: high alcohol yet still balanced whites and really dense red wines that are classy - the Italian influence it seems.
The no-nonsense Te Manche was our local from day one – watch the sun set – get mildly approached by dodgy souvenir sellers – watch the package tourists unpack from a dangerous-looking island tour boat – see fish chucked onto the quay from a tiny fishing boat with what looks like enough skipjacks to feed the town..
Wakan bar is also worth a visit. Like a traffic island ship, it is nicer to be in than to look at, and has a tree growing through it. No, really!
Most days we headed up towards Estoril beach, a short walk, where there are several beach clubs with loungers, bar, and restaurant.
Very chilled out and the reason to visit Boa Vista (unless you are a kite-surfer, in
which case you will already know). Club Bahia has the best food of the beach places and a Euro-vibe that we liked.
Downsides: in Migrante the sound travels, part of the ambience for us, and the housey feel. Dogs – lots of strays who will buddy up with you on the beach in a non-intrusive way but also howl at the moon which makes for atmospheric nights. We didn’t notice any mosquitoes but flies were a feature of most mealtimes, they leave you alone after that. The prices are not much different from Europe.
Hopefully this review gives an impression of Boa Vista as a still rough and original place to visit with much to recommend it for the non-package tourist.
Migrante guest house is a gem..
